Dr Strange Flake
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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Described in the Falcon "Best climbs Moab" as "tricky" and a 5 bolt sport route going at 5.10.
It has 5 bolts, the first about 15 or more feet off the ground clipped from an insecure stance. It is tricky at the crux. I would take a few small cams for the pods en route to the first bolt of this sport climb. I whined, sniveled etc more than I think I ever have on a mid grade 5.10. For comparison, and I found all the other 10s in this routes vicinity to be significantly easier. Your mileage may vary.
Still, fun, sequency moves on typical sand covered crimps to a creaky flake.
Imediately right of Fistful of Potash, first route left of the Schoolroom Slabs on a small buttress.
5 draws and a few small to mid size cams.