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The Ghetto
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Dr. Slutpants 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,453
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Scott Boulien a few moves below the "Bathtub".

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Dr. Slutpants, though a bit of an eliminate, is one of the best problems at the Ghetto - absolutely sustained crimping on a bullet-hard shield of rock.

    It takes the very leftmost line of holds out the Underdog Cave, sharing a start with Underdog but finishing on a specific set of lip holds that are often ticked (if not, ask a local for the beta).

    Begin as for Underdog, but instead of levering up to the pebble from the left-hand gaston, move into a crescent-shaped crimp high and left. Match up, power for a sidepull cup, reel it in and get a high left crimp/pebble, then snag the little two-finger pocket (with a sharp tooth) just below the huge bath-tub. Now, still avoiding the bathtub, shoot way left for a pink pebble (the original pebble, a barely-attached finger bucket that somehow stayed on for 6 or 7 years of travel, has since broken off -- anyone know who was it?) then move past the bathtub for crimpers on the vertical panel over the lip.

    Stand up, and step off.

    Protection 

    A thick T-shirt


    Photos of Dr. Slutpants Slideshow Add Photo
    Bearing down on the thin crimps of Dr Slutty Pants. <br /> <br />Photo by Scott Bouldien.
    Bearing down on the thin crimps of Dr Slutty Pants...

    Comments on Dr. Slutpants Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Sep 30, 2002

    General Question: The web site 8a.nu has drawn up a table comparing grades for boulder problems and routes. I think the chart under rates the V scale as it is used in the US. How do the bouldering masters equate YDS and V-scale?
    By richard magill
    Oct 1, 2002

    Howdy Richard- I saw this scale in one of the mags:

    V0 = 5.10V1 = 5.11-V2 = 5.11V3 = 5.11+V4 = 5.12-V7 = 5.13-V10 = 5.14-V13 = 5.15-

    I'd be interested if any local hardcore bouldering types agree with this.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    The grade conversion table at the 8a.nu site is a bit misleading and poorly drawn. They are not trying to say that 5.13a is similar to a V10. They are only comparing YDS route grades to the French route grades. And comparing V-scale bouldering grades to French bouldering grades. The French boulder scale and French route scales are different, though they use the same number system (8a, 8a+, 8b, etc.). I would agree with the above comment regarding a rough conversion of V grades to YDS.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    UMMM

    climbingboulder.com/resources/...

    YEA
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    The ratings scale on this website (mentioned above) is correct in comparing the V scale to YDS or the French (Font) scale. But it doesn't compare YDS to the French route scale. Hey, to confuse things further, the French bouldering scale has a separate rating system for traverses (traverse scale) or straight up boulder problems (bloc scale). Surprisingly, the climbingboulder.com rating scale doesn't even mention the John Gill B-system, which should be noted at least for historical purposes.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 1, 2002

    Rich, indeed, this seems to square with things reported here and feels about right for those things I have jumped on as well. 8a.nu seemed to be trying to make the comparision across the board but as indicated in the other comment that was evidently not the intent.