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The Ghetto
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Dr. Slutpants 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,505
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Scott Boulien a few moves below the "Bathtub&...

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  • Description 

    Dr. Slutpants, though a bit of an eliminate, is one of the best problems at the Ghetto - absolutely sustained crimping on a bullet-hard shield of rock.

    It takes the very leftmost line of holds out the Underdog Cave, sharing a start with Underdog but finishing on a specific set of lip holds that are often ticked (if not, ask a local for the beta).

    Begin as for Underdog, but instead of levering up to the pebble from the left-hand gaston, move into a crescent-shaped crimp high and left. Match up, power for a sidepull cup, reel it in and get a high left crimp/pebble, then snag the little two-finger pocket (with a sharp tooth) just below the huge bath-tub. Now, still avoiding the bathtub, shoot way left for a pink pebble (the original pebble, a barely-attached finger bucket that somehow stayed on for 6 or 7 years of travel, has since broken off -- anyone know who was it?) then move past the bathtub for crimpers on the vertical panel over the lip.

    Stand up, and step off.

    Protection 

    A thick T-shirt


    Photos of Dr. Slutpants Slideshow Add Photo
    Bearing down on the thin crimps of Dr Slutty Pants...
    Bearing down on the thin crimps of Dr Slutty Pants...

    Comments on Dr. Slutpants Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Sep 30, 2002

    General Question: The web site 8a.nu has drawn up a table comparing grades for boulder problems and routes. I think the chart under rates the V scale as it is used in the US. How do the bouldering masters equate YDS and V-scale?
    By richard magill
    Oct 1, 2002

    Howdy Richard- I saw this scale in one of the mags:

    V0 = 5.10V1 = 5.11-V2 = 5.11V3 = 5.11+V4 = 5.12-V7 = 5.13-V10 = 5.14-V13 = 5.15-

    I'd be interested if any local hardcore bouldering types agree with this.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    The grade conversion table at the 8a.nu site is a bit misleading and poorly drawn. They are not trying to say that 5.13a is similar to a V10. They are only comparing YDS route grades to the French route grades. And comparing V-scale bouldering grades to French bouldering grades. The French boulder scale and French route scales are different, though they use the same number system (8a, 8a+, 8b, etc.). I would agree with the above comment regarding a rough conversion of V grades to YDS.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    UMMM

    climbingboulder.com/resources/...

    YEA
    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 1, 2002

    The ratings scale on this website (mentioned above) is correct in comparing the V scale to YDS or the French (Font) scale. But it doesn't compare YDS to the French route scale. Hey, to confuse things further, the French bouldering scale has a separate rating system for traverses (traverse scale) or straight up boulder problems (bloc scale). Surprisingly, the climbingboulder.com rating scale doesn't even mention the John Gill B-system, which should be noted at least for historical purposes.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 1, 2002

    Rich, indeed, this seems to square with things reported here and feels about right for those things I have jumped on as well. 8a.nu seemed to be trying to make the comparision across the board but as indicated in the other comment that was evidently not the intent.