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Summit Block Rock
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Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride T 
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Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Larry Coats, and Scott Baxter, 1983
Season: Fall and Spring are best
Page Views: 13,505
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (107)
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My wife rapping off the summit of Summit Block Roc...

Description 

Dr. Rubo's has gained in popularity over the last few years as one of Sedona's best moderate multipitch outings. The climbing is pretty dang good, with the awesome splitter crack of the second pitch being the highlight of the ascent. The route sits on Summit Block Rock, found just left (west) of Coffeepot Rock.

P1) Climb the obvious slot on the left side of the face to a belay seat at bolts atop the limestone band.

P2) Thrutch up through the slot right above the belay to gain the splitter hand crack above. Once that peters out, follow discontinuous cracks to a belay on a sloping block.

P3) Follow the line of fixed pro (retrobolts and fixed pins) out right from the belay across the face. At the end, turn and climb up to gain the top of the ledge above. Belay.

P4) Climb east from the belay up broken ledges to the left side of the summit feature. Out on the left, find a single bolt, clip it, then make a sort of airy bouldery move to gain a small ledge, then scramble up easier stuff to the top.

Descent: Rappel (two ropes) off the east side into the saddle behind the formation. Scramble back to front.

Protection 

Standard rack from 1/2" up to #4 Camalot.


Photos of Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride Slideshow Add Photo
Kam gets a nice fist jam while linking the first 2...
Kam gets a nice fist jam while linking the first 2...
Claire R. executing the overhanging rap off the su...
Claire R. executing the overhanging rap off the su...
Kam links the first 2 pitches of Dr. Rubos Wild Ri...
Kam links the first 2 pitches of Dr. Rubos Wild Ri...
Dr Rubo's Wild Ride summit shadow
Dr Rubo's Wild Ride summit shadow
Kam on the first pitch of Dr. Rubos Wild Ride in S...
Kam on the first pitch of Dr. Rubos Wild Ride in S...
Austin nearing the top of P2 on a pitch 1 and 2 li...
Austin nearing the top of P2 on a pitch 1 and 2 li...
hmo on the belay, p1
hmo on the belay, p1
just after the crux of Pitch 1 (5.8+.. but stout f...
just after the crux of Pitch 1 (5.8+.. but stout f...
Austin busting out a pitch 1 and 2 link up.
Austin busting out a pitch 1 and 2 link up.
Starting up the last pitch of Dr Rubo's.  Photo by...
Starting up the last pitch of Dr Rubo's. Photo by...
Me looking forward to a great adventure on Dr. Rub...
Me looking forward to a great adventure on Dr. Rub...
Shadow climbers on the last pitch of Dr. Rubo's
Shadow climbers on the last pitch of Dr. Rubo's
above the crux on p2
above the crux on p2
Chris Parks finishes up on the summit Pitch of 'Dr...
Chris Parks finishes up on the summit Pitch of 'Dr...
Linking p1&2 Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride
Linking p1&2 Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride
Braxton climbing P1, fortunately we had a full moo...
Braxton climbing P1, fortunately we had a full moo...
richard finishing up the 3rd pitch traverse as see...
richard finishing up the 3rd pitch traverse as see...
Starting up pitch 4 en route to the top. January 2...
Starting up pitch 4 en route to the top. January 2...
Claire Rassmussen on pitch 2 of Dr. Rubos
Claire Rassmussen on pitch 2 of Dr. Rubos
view from the top.. it was a wild ride for sure.. ...
view from the top.. it was a wild ride for sure.. ...
Chris Parks follows P1 of Dr. Rbuo's Wild Ride, wh...
Chris Parks follows P1 of Dr. Rbuo's Wild Ride, wh...
Eric Peterson leading P1
Eric Peterson leading P1

Comments on Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 8, 2014
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 23, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb at a moderate grade. Minimal loose rock for a 'desert tower' climb. Combine to 2 pitches total to enjoy even more without 'short' pitches, although that adds sustanance to the 'first pitch', and may make the climb feel more like 10a.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Mar 30, 2006

There are anchors on the summit, so look around for them. I was goofy enough to belay off of some marginal gear right next to the big bomer bolts! Silly me.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2006

Fun route that isn't too tough. Rap from anchors at the top and escape off the back. Walk back around to your gear.
By Brian Boyd
Administrator
From: Kowloon, Hong Kong
Nov 6, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

First two pitches are stiff for the grade, but very cool.

The fourth pitch is challenging as well. The pitch wanders a bit, the mantle move is above a ledge, left of the bolt, and my belayer couldn't see me at all. So, it seemed like a good chance of hitting the ledge below if you blew the move.

At the summit, the bolts are on the opposite side of the formation from where you top out.
By EricH
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

What a climb! The first two pitches were quite stout for the grade but well worth it. My favorite part was by far the third "airy traverse" pitch.. it puts the Mace's traverse to shame!
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jun 17, 2008

Fun route with pretty solid rock. The pitches are all short, so the climbing goes really fast. The crux is getting into the crack on P2 -- definitely 5.9+, maybe even 5.10.

IMPORTANT BETA: On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 18, 2008

"On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope"

Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem.
By rpc
Jun 18, 2008

"Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 18, 2008

I'm curious to see if these do gooders are as conscientious at replacing worn sport area anchors as adding superfluous stations to classic Sedona towers.

Gotta love it.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I distinctly recall the rap being fun and pretty. Darn shame someone would F with it.
By Paul Davidson
Aug 12, 2008

Actual first ascent of the tower was Herb North's lead. Followed by Peter Nobels y moi. Larry does deserve credit for the first ascent in that he did the first pitch, found the climb, etc.... But then let it sit for awhile (6 months.)

A group of us where in the area (same day as Tower of Boodle first ascent I believe) when this was pointed out to Herb. He was actually going to come back down after the crux when he found out he was "stealing" Larry's climb, but I convinced him to finish it off.
By Braxtron
From: ...
Oct 19, 2008

I agree with Greg. There's no way the first pitch is any harder than 5.9. It's hard to miss the huge jugs (at every tricky part), even at night. If it's feeling harder than 5.9, you're probably overlooking a big hold.
By mike bromberg
From: Crested Butte, CO
Apr 7, 2009

Did the route yesterday. The new rap station is well placed and in an excellent location on a huge ledge and does not remove the "free hanging rappel" aspect. Used no stoppers and a double rack with single #3.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Watched out for the bees. On 09/01/2009, we were attacked by bees after we rappelled down from the top on our way to retrieve our packs at the start of the climb. The bees hive was located appx 50 yards down from the base of the rappel, along the edge of the rock face. There is an alternative path if you head out from the spire a bit and then down and around to the base of the climb. Awesome climb.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I had a similar experience with the bees years ago, but have been back and not been bothered. Good to know that they are still around. Try linking p1 and p2 for an awesome 190 foot enduro pitch. Awesome summit
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

wild route. clever route-finding of Dr.Rubo. Classic spire summit. can't beat mid-sixties temps in January! Definitely would have been nice to have more than a single #1, #2 and #3 for P2. oops. mantle move on last pitch was puzzling and somewhat under-protected to do it the "5.7" way. regarding the new rap station, i don't mind only needing one rope for the raps.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 11, 2011

A fine summer morning climb! Surprising. First two pitches in the shade, belay in the shade after the third, gorgeous summit, sunny return. Not bad. Start as early as you can from the lot. Shade lasts through 10 or 11ish on the first two pitches and the rest is mellow. Double rope rap highly recommended (Fun!) rather than messing around with the midway anchor.
By Fletch
From: Scottsdale
Sep 7, 2011

If anyone lost a ring, found at the base of Dr. Rubos, please describe for its return.

Fletch
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 22, 2011

Found a belay device on the approach up to Dr. Rubos, let me know if you lost it and I'll get it back to you.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 10, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Stellar **** p1 & 2, the rest is fun and quite civilized. I saw the 9+ and 10 ratings on here and was scared. But this climb is at most 9- and well protected, by local standards I would say. Grade easier than mace, and certainly coyote tower. The mantle on p4 is cool. Fantastic climb
By hamlincheese
Feb 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

P1&2 are great. Rock quality goes downhill quickly after that (P3 especially). Cool mantle and great views from the top!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 22, 2012

The anchor that folks above were complaining about may have a different purpose -- it's the anchor for a climb that starts from the saddle that you rap to from the top of Dr. R's. I got the rope stuck pulling from below the saddle (NOT recommended, pull rope from saddle and then downclimb) and in rescuing it we "discovered" a sweet little climb from the saddle up to the anchor on top of the ledge. A single bolt protects the loose and crumbly layback section and it's about 8 by Sedona ratings.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Seemed like solid "desert 5.9" to me. The mini-roof on P1 was the crux for me. I had a double rack to #3 camalot including nuts and seemed to use most things somewhere. I brought a #4, and although I placed it - I probably could have done without it.

Rap was easy with one rope. We had a 70m. With a 60m, watch the ends on the first rap.

Very well protected climbing.
By DesertRat
Jan 25, 2014

Pitch 1 was good, with good hands the whole way, but awkward feet for the crux move. Bolted Anchor.

Pitch 2 was way harder for me than it should have been. I would say that if you aren't solid on hand cracks, it's going to feel harder than 5.9. Doubles of .5"-3" will definitely make you feel better about it and it takes gear really nicely the whole way. Bolted Anchor.

Pitch 3 A couple of well protected traverse moves and then up some 4th class. Gear anchor.

Pitch 4 Fun 5.easy moves to a lip. Mantle protects with a bolt. If you don't want to do the mantle, going left looks pretty easy.

Descent: That rap is beautiful hanging rap. If only one rope, then the rap station is slightly off to climbers right.

I would consider this climb more Grade II than Grade III.
By Micah Kurtz
Feb 6, 2014

Does anyone know what the climb directly left from rubos (if your looking at it) and around the corner is? It looked like a thin lay back crack and I may have seen a piton up past the crack. Thanks!
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
Feb 7, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Be careful pulling your rope. We did the rap in one with two 60s and it got stuck in a chossy dirt clod crack just below the intermediate rap station. Retrieval was very sketchy
By Tony San Felice
From: Cottonwood, Arizona
Apr 8, 2014

so there is no anchor at the top of the pitch 3 traverse. and the final pitch is easy 5th class climbing. nothing harder than 5.5. all in all definately one of sedona's best