Dr. Michael Solar 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Erickson and Walsh, 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Date:April 10,2003 Halfway up the route. Photograp...
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Description This is a nice steep crack with lots of face holds just left of Positively 4th Street. It is a great climb but quite short...25 feet tops....
Protection Standard small rack.... Tree at top of small buttress anchor.
Working the climb back down after topping out.
| CM and a good view of the route.
| Good fun.
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| Comments on Dr. Michael Solar |
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By Tyler Jones Jan 1, 2001
| There is one move on it that is MAYBE a 5.7, otherwise I would give it more like a 5.5. Rossiter gives this one a star, I'm not sure why. However, this would be a great route for beginners that want to set up a top rope. Hike around to the left and carefully follow the top of the rock around to the right to a tree with slings. |
By Michael Komarnitsky Founding Father From: Seattle, WA Apr 14, 2002
| I'll second the great beginner lead.... short, but you could probably put a dozen pieces in it nonetheless... |
By James Balasalle Sep 30, 2002
| I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while. |
By Anonymous Coward May 23, 2003
| This route also has value for the aspiring soloist. Short with postive holds and a simple walk off. |
By Merlin From: Grand Junction Mar 9, 2007
| This is a good route for people breaking into Eldo 7s. It can be totally sewn up with a red Alien, a number 1 BD, and a set of nuts. It offered me good practice at placing gear under slightly grippy circumstances. |
By Mark Cushman From: Cumming, GA Mar 8, 2008
| Needs to be longer, but a good route if you are already in the area. |
By Chris Zeller From: Boulder, CO Apr 3, 2008 rating: 5.7
| I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Apr 22, 2008
| Fun climb. Plus from the tree anchor you can traverse a few feet south and build a trad anchor to top rope Positively Fourth Street with if no one in your party is feeling up to leading that route. You can also back up your anchor with a long sling to the tree. When you're done simply take down your anchor and walk off carefully to the north. |
By grant.rudd From: boulder, CO Feb 4, 2009
| Very reminiscent of a gym route, with good pro all the way up. I found it to take small nuts and a small cam. +1 to a great begninner lead. My first Eldo 5.7 on lead, although it didnt feel like one. |
By Joshua Steenburgh From: Longmont, Colorado Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.7
| Great climb, but like most say, it really is too short. I would caution beginner leaders that the gear is quite small throughout, though you can find spots for bigger nuts and even a #1 BD. Still, everything is solid and as long as you have a few small nuts and small cams you should be able to sew it up. |
By Tomas Gaylord Oct 8, 2012
| A short pitch that can be made a bit longer with enjoyable moderate climbing by climbing the small rotten roof behind the tree, once you get to the ledge and follow a left-facing corner/crack to the walk off for stuff like Pony Express. |
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