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Dr. Gizmo 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Lynn Hill & John Long
Page Views: 1,385
Submitted By: Max on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This climb starts on top of a fourth class/easy fifth class ramp on the left side of the main wall. Either belay from the ground for the first pitch, or have the belayer join the leader at the top of the ramp.
P1: Fingers locks and crimpers will get you through the crux of the first pitch, which is at the start. Hands to the belay. 5.10b
P2: Great pitch, with a spicy step out right to a bolt on a varnished blank looking section. Continue up through very fun climbing.
Its possible to combine P1 and P2 with a 60 meter rope if you belayer is on the top of the ramp. Rappel route.

Protection 

Single set of cams, nuts, and runners.


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By brent moore
May 29, 2007

It is easier to make 3 rappels from fixed stations with a 60m rope, down and trending to the right, with the last over the roof in the center of the wall where you started. The last rappel is short by 5-10 ft. with a really easy downclimb.