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 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Dr. Fun Time 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Gabel and Linda Jarit , 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Alexey on Mar 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This is overhanging hand crack which run inside of the flare.
You do cool and powerful moves all the way to the anchors.
Stelar. I think it going to be a classic route and 10 years from today it would be several parties waiting in the base.
After new Yosemite book will include this route- it going to be fourth white strike at Reed's visible from parking lot : Reed's Direct, Lunatic fringe, Stone Grove and Dr. Fun Time.
Until it become classic - expect some small granite flakes coming out from your feet and hands - while you climb

Location 

Start just 30 left from Porter's Pout. You can see new rap bolts at the top of the crack.

Protection 

Single from 0.5 to #5.
double hands size especially #1, #2 Camelots


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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 19, 2013

Eric says that It has a second pitch too,(I did not climb it and even did not notice it) that goes at 5.10c. At the anchors on top of the first pitch, you do some wild moves left, around the arete (5.10c) to a few knobs on the face, and then up to cracks that lead to the anchors of "Ejesta".
By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 26, 2013

Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss.
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 22, 2014

My friends think that I overrated quality of the route.
A lot of loose rock, danger for belayer if he/she directly below the line, bad pro in the bottom part, and moving flakes on the upper parts. True, but the climbing moves are good!