|Reed's Pinnacle Area
This is overhanging hand crack which run inside of the flare.
You do cool and powerful moves all the way to the anchors.
Stelar. I think it going to be a classic route and 10 years from today it would be several parties waiting in the base.
After new Yosemite book will include this route- it going to be fourth white strike at Reed's visible from parking lot : Reed's Direct, Lunatic fringe, Stone Grove and Dr. Fun Time.
Until it become classic - expect some small granite flakes coming out from your feet and hands - while you climb
Start just 30 left from Porter's Pout. You can see new rap bolts at the top of the crack.
Single from 0.5 to #5.
double hands size especially #1, #2 Camelots
From: San Jose
Mar 19, 2013
Eric says that It has a second pitch too,(I did not climb it and even did not notice it) that goes at 5.10c. At the anchors on top of the first pitch, you do some wild moves left, around the arete (5.10c) to a few knobs on the face, and then up to cracks that lead to the anchors of "Ejesta".
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Mar 26, 2013
Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss.
From: San Jose
Apr 22, 2014
My friends think that I overrated quality of the route.
A lot of loose rock, danger for belayer if he/she directly below the line, bad pro in the bottom part, and moving flakes on the upper parts. True, but the climbing moves are good!