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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left 
Beyond Lunacy 
Beyond the Fringe 
Bong's Away Center 
Bongs Away, Left 
Deer Route, The 
Dr. Fun Time 
Dream Easy 
Independence Pinnacle, Center 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 
Iota, The 
Lunatic Fringe 
Olga's Trick 
Porter's Pout 
Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant, Center, The 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

Dr. Fun Time 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Gabel and Linda Jarit , 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: Alexey on Mar 19, 2013
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>


This is overhanging hand crack which run inside of the flare.
You do cool and powerful moves all the way to the anchors.
Stelar. I think it going to be a classic route and 10 years from today it would be several parties waiting in the base.
After new Yosemite book will include this route- it going to be fourth white strike at Reed's visible from parking lot : Reed's Direct, Lunatic fringe, Stone Grove and Dr. Fun Time.
Until it become classic - expect some small granite flakes coming out from your feet and hands - while you climb


Start just 30 left from Porter's Pout. You can see new rap bolts at the top of the crack.


Single from 0.5 to #5.
double hands size especially #1, #2 Camelots

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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 19, 2013

Eric says that It has a second pitch too,(I did not climb it and even did not notice it) that goes at 5.10c. At the anchors on top of the first pitch, you do some wild moves left, around the arete (5.10c) to a few knobs on the face, and then up to cracks that lead to the anchors of "Ejesta".

By Jeff Scheuerell
Mar 26, 2013

Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss.