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Upper Tier - Right End
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Chockstone (aka:Captain's Crack) T 
Dr. Dias T 
Featherweight Champion S 
Mal Bouche T 

Dr. Dias 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: B. Wade and ??? Fall 09
Page Views: 754
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 16, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jess high on Dr. Dias

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  • Description 

    Fantastic pitch! Nice exposure and handcrack high up on a bottomless arete. Good trad sections and bolts where you need em'. Start on Birch Tree corner and break right about 50' up at a line of 3 bolts on an awesome face. Follow this to a sweet crack and an awesome stemming finish!

    Location 

    Up and right of the wet brown face directly above the approach trail and on the way to the chockstone crack is a huge open left facing corner. This is birch tree corner. Start up it for 50' then break right above the big overhang.

    Protection 

    gear to hand sized. There's even a nice old pin on the lower section of birch tree to keep with tradition


    Comments on Dr. Dias Add Comment
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    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Aug 8, 2012
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    super fun facing climbing with a little exposure, to boot, above the dirty Birch Tree corner. The crack above the line of 3 bolts was short and, to me, seemed more fingery than thin hands (one actual hand jam) with a lot of suspect flakes/chockstones within the crack and horizontal break at about 2/3 height.
    By Keyan P
    From: Burlington, VT
    Sep 7, 2012

    Very fun route! Secure with good simple gear at the bottom and upper cracks, and a well bolted face traverse up high. Doesn't get enough love.

    For gear I used, roughly in order: #3, #2, #0.75, some nuts, yellow mastercam