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Dr Demento's Descending Demise
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Snake Buttress
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Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Pete Hubbel, Greg Hinnen, and Mike Smith, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 740 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Mar 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Dr. Demento is an interesting, varied route on the far left side of the snake buttress. It is difficult to rate the quality of this route, as it has good climbing that is complicated by old button heads and cat's claw bushes. I put in 3 stars, figuring that other people will put in fewer, and it will even out.
The climb is generally done in 2 pitches, but it actually works better to do it in one. Start behind the big pine tree on the far left (west) side, directly beneath a steep face with 3 old buttonheads. surmount a pinnacle, clip the first bolt, and climb somewhat non-typical, slippery, South Platte granite without exfoliating flakes, 11c.
This gets you up to a bushy ledge with a single buttonhead beneath a large roof. Back this up with good gear ranging from fingers to hands, and move out the right side of the roof into a right-leaning, offset, flared splitter. Follow this up until you can make a belay in the cave above. The pitch takes small hands to big hands/tight fist sized gear, and the belay in the cave can take gear from large stoppers to hand sized pieces. The books give this pitch 11b, but it feels very similar to a lot of the leaning cracks at Vedauwoo that are in the 5.10 range.
From the cave belay, you can climb the rest of Hodge Podge, or you can climb up and left in the cave and prairie dog out a rotten talus hole and do a complicated walk off.
The climb is generally done in 2 pitches, but it actually works better to do it in one. Start behind the big pine tree on the far left (west) side, directly beneath a steep face with 3 old buttonheads. surmount a pinnacle, clip the first bolt, and climb somewhat non-typical, slippery, South Platte granite without exfoliating flakes, 11c.
This gets you up to a bushy ledge with a single buttonhead beneath a large roof. Back this up with good gear ranging from fingers to hands, and move out the right side of the roof into a right-leaning, offset, flared splitter. Follow this up until you can make a belay in the cave above. The pitch takes small hands to big hands/tight fist sized gear, and the belay in the cave can take gear from large stoppers to hand sized pieces. The books give this pitch 11b, but it feels very similar to a lot of the leaning cracks at Vedauwoo that are in the 5.10 range.
From the cave belay, you can climb the rest of Hodge Podge, or you can climb up and left in the cave and prairie dog out a rotten talus hole and do a complicated walk off.
Location
Left side of the Snake Buttress. You can't miss the obvious, right-leaning crack in the left face of the 'Hodge Podge' pitch 1 dihedral.
Protection
3 old buttonheads protect the lower face climbing, gear from #0.5 camalot to #3 Camalot, possibly #3.5 or new #4 Camalot for the crack. Large stoppers to #0.75 Camalot for anchor.
Note that the crack leans hard to the right, and is located in the left face of a lower-angled dihedral. If it is at your limit, it might be best not to run it out too far and pitch off onto the thorn-bush infested slab below.
Note that the crack leans hard to the right, and is located in the left face of a lower-angled dihedral. If it is at your limit, it might be best not to run it out too far and pitch off onto the thorn-bush infested slab below.
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