Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!
The face just right of Crazy Alice.
2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor.
If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....
"Bring a cool head on this one."
Raleigh and Thomas rated this 5.10x using old school ratings. Back when there was only one bolt to protect the crux. Then Chuck's guide placed it at 5.10a RX. Finally Tony advanced the rating up to 5.10dX.
By Daniel S From: Oklahoma City Mar 6, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b X
I only remember two bolts as recently as August 2006. Has a new bolt been added since then? Also, if you blow the first bolt, you will deck even with a cam placement in the highest crack. In the guide books, the safety of this climb is rated RX.
I wish this route had 1 or 2 more bolts would make this climb enjoyable.
By Daniel S From: Oklahoma City May 16, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b X
I originally liked the idea of placing one or two more bolts on the route. However, I feel much more rewarded having waited until I felt solid enough to red point Cool Head as is. I don't think we would be able to call it "Cool Head" if any more protection was added.:) You can always pink point the route via placing long slings on each bolt (5 to 8ft) to make a total of five clips: the cam in the horizontal, the carabiner at the end of the sling on the first bolt, the first bolt, the carabiner on the end of the sling on the second bolt, and the second bolt.