|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
Really great line, I loved this route.
Climbs up a steep juggy section followed by a long arete with reachy moves. Great slapping back and forth, with a full-on leg thread to get a really good rest near the top of the first pitch- right in the steep part.
The "extension" pitch is only worth doing if you are going to climb at the "Golden Ball." Otherwise it's a bit contrived with more rope-drag that good/hard climbing.
The second route from the left side of the wall.
Pitch 1: 9 bolts, 1 thread
Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 thread
Moving right on the wild bit.
Leading Dozer Days transitioning from the pump to ...
Pretty steep this bit here.
The juggy, overhanging start of Dozer Days.
|By Ken H|
From: Bell's Canyon, UT
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
The lead is a little scary, the party behind us thought so too. Info here on second pitch is wrong. It is more like 3 threads and 4 bolts. To do it as 1 pitch it would be less than 60 m but the rope drag would be horrible.
From the top of pitch 1 go up then traverse right, pass a bail point with a bunch of threads and bail biners/quick link, go straight up from here to one more thread, this leads to an amazing belay ledge in the Golden Ball. You can access the climbs of the Golden Ball from here for one more pitch of 6a+, 6b+, or 7b.
We rappelled with one 60 meter rope. It requires back clipping to get back to the top of pitch 1. The rappel from the top of pitch 1 was about 28 m.
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Feb 27, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Thanks for the comment Ken. I cleaned up the description... at least that's how I remember it. If I'm wrong someone please let me know.
Hopefully this wall will be getting Titanium soon, but it's out of my hands for now.