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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This is the left-facing dihedral to the right of Heavy Weather
. Climb the obtuse dihedral using many large face holds straight up to a flake which you climb through on the right side. Finish through the rotten yellow band with a right-rising hand crack.
Currently the route is lichen covered and climbs through a typical Peanuts loose rock bands. Would be an OK climb if it saw more activity. My one star rating reflects what it could be, if climbed more and cleaned up.
If not continuing up, either rap from tree at the top of the pitch or traverse off right (lots of loose rock.)
By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Portland, OR
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I gave this route a 5.7 rating, because I actually climbed the start of Heavy Weather and bypassed the 5.9 dihedral by going right into the squeeze section formed by the flake. I would not recommend doing this variation as the rope drag was terrible. I would, however, give the beginning of Heavy Weather 2.5 stars!