Downpressor Man 5.12b
| 1,495 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Jim Redo on Mar 30, 2003 |
| |
Add Photo Printer View
2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
|
|
Description Climb Guenese to the first bolt passing a pin en route. Follow two more bolts straight up to the anchor. A pin can be clipped after the last bolt for the run to the anchor. Crimpy and powerful. Maybe a little spanny for the vertically challenged. Best not done on a hot day in the sun.
Protection Two pins and three bolts.
| Comments on Downpressor Man |
|
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Apr 2, 2003
| Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength. |
By Richard M. Wright From: Lakewood, CO Apr 2, 2003
| Drop a star for the brevity of the killer climbing and the indirect start and finish. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 3, 2003
| Seemed especially reachy for a middle-aged, average-strength, +2 ape, 5'10" climber. |
By Anonymous Coward May 18, 2005
| Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Apr 27, 2011
| I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move. |
By Noah8000 From: Arvada, CO Sep 5, 2011 rating: 5.12b
| That crux move is killing me. Avoid in the summer afternoon. I didn't and found myself trying to stick the crux reach when the rock was all greasy. If only I was a little tiny bit taller, I'd be able to nail it on redpoint. |
By reboot From: Westminster, CO Aug 28, 2012
| Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique). |
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Apr 13, 2013 rating: 5.12b
| Leo, This route is classic Eldo funk, and I mean that in the most endearing way. It's only reachy if you don't utilize the inobvious intermediates and sequential movement. I've done this climb dozens of times, and I never get tired of it. It's a one-move-dominant route with really fun movement up to the crux. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Apr 14, 2013
| Ken, I recall watching Mark do this without all the intermediates, and that is why I commented as above. |
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Apr 15, 2013 rating: 5.12b
| (Y) |
|