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Downing Mountain (Eagle Cliff)

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Downing Mountain (Eagle Cliff)  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,372,091'
Location: 43.8671, -71.7816 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,365
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Barber on Jan 25, 2013
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On the southern flank of the mountain, facing Stinson Lake, there is a band of small crags lining the face of the hills.

Some of the ice climbs could be listed as regular routes rather than boulder problems as they are all 20 feet high or more, but they have as of yet only been climbed rope less. Careful tool placements should be used to protect oneself and arrest potential slips especially during topoffs. Otherwise be safe and use a short rope.

Getting There 

Stinson Lake Road in Rumney, NH to Doetown Road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.9 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Downing Mountain (Eagle Cliff)
x = Beta (tool slots / hooks / crampon smears, ect...

Project A M5-6  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Downing Mountain (Eagle Cli...
Slightly overhanging with a few good tool locks to start off with. Delicate edging and front-point smearing to some thiner hooking towards the top. I had to back off because I wasn't sure how secure the hooks were, and I didn't want to risk my tool blowing from that height. I may try again before the snow melts.The final move feels like its probably M5-6ish (comparable to a 5.9 or 5.10 crux move)It might make a great summer boulder problem as well, though with rock shoes, its probably only V1...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Downing Mountain (Eagle Cliff) Slideshow Add Photo
Near the mixed cragging on Downing Mountain.
Near the mixed cragging on Downing Mountain.
Topo of region
BETA PHOTO: Topo of region

Comments on Downing Mountain (Eagle Cliff) Add Comment
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By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 24, 2013
Ryan, where do you park for this area? Years ago Ward said he checked around to see if there really was an 'Eagle Cliff', but didn't find anything note worthy. Have you found any rock that is quality and big enough for routes or good summertime bouldering potential?
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Feb 25, 2013
I think Eagle Cliff might be the name of the lower flank of the mountain. There is a series small broken crags along the ridge one of which has a few 25 foot sections. That area has a few really nice short ice climbs which I haven't gotten a chance to post yet. Sport climbing might be a possibility, but not with anything of significant height. There could be some bouldering potential; a lot of it is dirty and mossy rock which is why I was using it for dry-tool practice.

There used to be a boys summer camp in the earlier part of the 1900's just bordering this area, and I think they used to camp on top of the hill as a getaway with a nice view of the lake. I assume this is where the name Eagle Cliff came from.

I have the advantage of working at a school (the grounds of the old summer camp) which borders the western side of the flank where the property boarders the National Forest (The school is represented by one of those white blobs on the map with little black dots for buildings). All the craggy sections of the mountain are on National Forest property, but you would have to park on Doetown road and make your way up one of the snowmobile trails, then cut left and head towards the steeper section of the topo. I have drawn a small map if this is helpful.
Find a small outcropping on Dowtown road, and make...
Find a small outcropping on Dowtown road, and make your way up this snowmobile/logging road
By M Sprague
From: New England
Feb 25, 2013
Thanks. Maybe worth a walkabout during rock season to see if there is any good bouldering then.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Mar 7, 2013
I found another craglet on this hill which has some great bouldering potential for both rock and ice. The weather is a little warm, so most of the good ice is not stable and will have to wait until next year. The rock is schist and basalt (as is most rock in the baker river valley area), I had to back off of a few of the mixed problems as they were driving into the M6 range and I was not comfortable committing to the moves onsight without roped rehearsal, so a few controlled disengagements were in order. This seems to work ok as long as there is a nice snow blanket to land on.
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