Downdraft, aka Lever Action 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Bill Gibson, Chris Knuth, and Helmut (from Austria) |
| Submitted By: | D-Storm on Jun 29, 2007 |
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Dave Sims leans out to clip the first bolt in the ...
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Description This is basically the route to the right of Mariscos Lambada with two variations to get to the big roof crack (I think the left is harder and on better rock). Neither are harder than 5.10 to get to the roof and there are also two sets of anchors there.
Once you're standing on the ledge under the business, lean out to the crack (exciting). Flip around and get crankin on this fun, airy boulder problem. The anchors are just after turning the lip.
To me, this feels like an easier and less-scary version of Yosemite's Separate Reality (11d), but the guidebooks have always called this 12a.
Downdraft was the first 5.12 I ever laid eyes on when I was 13 years old, toproping the 5.8 on this wall. I saw some burly looking dudes falling off of it, and thought that it would be amazing if I was ever able to consider climbing something that hard. Not too long ago I climbed this route barefoot -- but I still get a flutter in my heart when I rack up for it! For me, Downdraft has remained the psychological epitome of 5.12a.
If it was more sustained, and not so out of the way, and such a biatch to clean, it would be classic. However, on a hot, crowded morning, it can sure be a lot of fun.
As far as the FA info, my friend Bill said he bolted the three lines in this particular section back in the day, but that the first guidebook gave credit to someone else and assigned different route names. He said he bolted Mariscos Lambada (I forget his name for it) for his wife and daughter.
Location The route starts off the big, triangular block next the the wall.
Protection 12 draws should get ya there. A 60-meter rope might be necessary to lower from the top anchors.
Chuck Lepley attempting the overhang.
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Chuck Lepley reaching out at the overhang.
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| Comments on Downdraft, aka Lever Action |
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By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jul 11, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Super cool roof on this route. I think 11d is an honest grade for this climb but it will feel harder if you don't know how to jam. |
By Fred Bonnard
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| There are several holds that make it possible to make the moves in the roof without jamming and still fell about 11d. Pretty cool line. |
By bagwag
Apr 5, 2012
| I put Lever Action (AKA Downdraft) up in the summer of 1995. It has had some differences of opinion on grade, originally .12a. First climbed by myself, Chris Knuth and Helmut, from Austria. Even the FA crew could not find a consensus on the difficulty. I was convinced that hand-jamming was essential to do the roof crack until I watched Knuth send it by just casually palming the crack side slopers. Both those guys were projecting .14 back then, so of course they thought it was moderate.
Fun climb, especially spicy while 'levering' the lip of the roof... hence the name and staying in the spirit of 'Rifle' jargon.
Beta tip: after making the first clip under the roof I would unclip the draw from the anchor at the top of the slab giving the rope a less severe angle, reducing rope drag and easier to clean route while lowering. Cheers, Bill Gibson |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2012
| All of the lead bolts and the anchor bolts to the first anchor were replaced on this last year with hardware from the ASCA. Several bolts were moved to make this a much better lead. Enjoy! |
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