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Creekside Wall
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Downclimb Route 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Dec 31, 2001
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Description 

On the right hand side of the wall, look for a large, right-leaning weakness. Access the top of the cliff to set up top rope anchors using this crack and corner. It makes a convenient way to get down from climbing other routes in the area, and is a good start to the West Face.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By England
From: ?
Jul 4, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Sometime last week bolts were added to the top of this climb. Everyone I know just solos this thing up, and down. Kind of a right of passage type thing.

By bigwallrog
From: the farside
Jul 5, 2010

The new bolts on the Downclimb Route are lame. I have a hard time not
chopping them, they are clearly the work of someone who has dollar signs in there head i.e. guides. They're in a spot for top roping a 10' section of fourth class rock. It's not even 5th class despite what is written here....

I have refrained from nailing some routes here to preserve the rock,
but guess I can commence with nailing any route I wish, since it seems
anyone can do as they please in the canyon now.

It's funny to me how since the changing of the guard (i.e. new ranger hired to replace you know who) people think they can do as they please.

I truly hope this is not a sign of things to come for the canyon.

And last to the mad bolter: perhaps a little restraint is in order.
The bolts on this route need to be removed and the holes filled. It's
just a matter of time before one or two locals chop this route and the
war will begin anew. I don't want to see this, because it will only bring heat on all of us.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 5, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

You know, I took my 13 year old buddy here a few weeks ago, and I for one would have appreciated having them. We did a couple routes that I led, and of course I had to set up a belay up above the climb on half dead and mostly pulled-out trees. Then we both had to do the downclimb, which I definitely think is low 5th, esp. if you've got short legs and can't stem way out right.

I wouldn't go back with someone inexperienced if there weren't bolts there, because watching him make insecure moves 25 feet above the ground isn't worth the route access there.

Bolts would also save damage to trees. I noticed a couple trees had rope grooves from people simple putting their rope around the poor tree and rapping to the ground.

C'mon people, if downclimbing low 5th makes you feel like a badass, just ignore the bolts and don't cause further damage to the rock.

By England
From: ?
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Phil-You go to UCCS, but please keep your Boulder ethics/mentality out of the Canyon. The bolt first-then ask questions later-then say don't clip it if you don't like it argument doesn't really hold up around here.
The truth is that this short scramble can be completely protected from the crack on the right, and if you don't feel like down-climbing...you can rap from one of the many natural anchors at the top. It's been this way for 50+ years.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 8, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

Just because I go to CU-Boulder does not mean I have a bolt-everything mentality. I have a "trad-mindset"(whatever that means) and I like to walk off the top of a crag just as much as rapping. However there is no walk-off here.

Climbing is becoming more and more mainstream and thus more and more inexperienced climbers are being added to the mix. If they come to the creekside wall to climb(and the bolts have been removed) they are either going to damage the tree by putting their rope directly around it and rapping, or downclimb. And IF these climbers start pitching off the downclimb route... well that's going to have more negative publicity than a few bolts.

I do think the bolts on the righthand climb are unnecessary.

By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Jul 8, 2010

Just about every time I take someone new here, the most frightening experience is this down-climb. They always ask me if there is another way down or why there are not any bolts to rap on. I'm glad someone finally put some in here. They were obviously thought out decently well, making the experience of climbing these moderates a more consistent amount of risk. This shouldn't be a pattern in the canyon though, and the ones on the right are dumb.

By Unassigned User
Aug 4, 2011

England stole the hangers. And he hates dogs. England needs to go back to England.