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Elevation: 203 ft
GPS: 42.6196, -70.7266
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 32,359 total · 175/month
Shared By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M

Description Suggest change

Have you been to Redrock? You can't get enough of that North Shore granite? Wish there was more? Well, there is.

The following are a few far flung curiosities sitting singly, silently, and largely untrammeled in the woods near the classics Zipper, Laughing Gull, and others at the Main Wall at Redrocks.

L->R (WORK IN PROGRESS):

Down Under

A. Premature Escalation, V0-, 10'.
B. Sleek Streek, 11- or V1. 12'.
C. ?.
D. Crippler, V1, 1p, 15', TR or boulder.
E. Flaming Galah, V2, 12'.
F. Cape Ann Fingerbang, V3 11, 25'.
G. ?.
Center Left
H? Cloak and Dagger, V2, 20'.
I? ??, V3?, 12'.
J? Vegamite, V2, 8'.
K. ?.
Center Right
L. Splitter, 8+ - 9, 1p, 30-40', gear or TR.
M. Second Pitch Face, 10-, 1p, 40', TR.
N. Corner Crack, 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
O. No Pro, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
P. Ball of Confusion, 7, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Q. Eric's Route, 10, 1p, 40', gear & bolt or TR.
R. Chippas Crack, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
S. Tony the Tiger, 6, 1p, 40', TR.
T. The Least Of The Deceased, 10-, 1p, 25', TR.
U. The Beast From The East, 11+, 1p, 20', TR.
V. Down Over, 5, 1p, 20', bolts.
W. Down Under, 10-, 1p, 25', bolt & gear or TR.
X. Blocks, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

The Head
Y. Doug's Nose, V2+.
Z. Doug's Roof, 11- or V2, 1p, 20', gear or boulder.

Close by to the south is Oz.

Getting There Suggest change

Since most items in this list sit alone, approaches are listed accordingly.

Per Chris McNeil: follow the main trail from the parking lot East along Route 128 until you pass the storage units. Turn north after the storage units and follow a trail to the pipeline. Head North on the pipeline until you see either Oz on the left or a tree stand up about 10 feet in a tree on the right. Follow the cairns and trail to Down Under. It is approximately a little over 1/3 mile.

Other Nearby Crags

Suggest change
In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Down Under

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0- 4-
 5
Premature Escalation
Boulder
V2 5+
 7
Doug's Nose
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Ball of Confusion
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 13
Splitter
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 5
No Pro
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+
 9
Doug's Roof
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Premature Escalation
 5
V0- 4- Boulder
Doug's Nose
 7
V2 5+ Boulder
Ball of Confusion
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Splitter
 13
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
No Pro
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Doug's Roof
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V2 5+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Down Under »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

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