Have you been to Redrock? You can't get enough of that North Shore granite? Wish there was more? Well, there is.
The following are a few far flung curiosities sitting singly, silently, and largely untrammeled in the woods near the classics Zipper, Laughing Gull, and others at the Main Wall at Redrocks.
L->R (WORK IN PROGRESS):
A. Premature Escalation, V0-, 10'.
B. Sleek Streek, 11- or V1. 12'.
D. Crippler, V1, 1p, 15', TR or boulder.
E. Flaming Galah, V2, 12'.
F. Cape Ann Fingerbang, V3 11, 25'.
H? Cloak and Dagger, V2, 20'.
I? Right Arete Project, V3?, 12'.
J? Vegamite, V2, 8'.
L. Splitter, 8+ - 9, 1p, 30-40', gear or TR.
M. Second Pitch Face, 10-, 1p, 40', TR.
N. Corner Crack, 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
O. No Pro, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
P. Ball of Confusion, 7, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Q. Eric's Route, 10, 1p, 40', gear & bolt or TR.
R. Chippas Crack, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
S. Tony the Tiger, 6, 1p, 40', TR.
T. The Least Of The Deceased, 10-, 1p, 25', TR.
U. The Beast From The East, 11+, 1p, 20', TR.
V. Down Over, 5, 1p, 20', bolts.
W. Down Under, 10-, 1p, 25', bolt & gear or TR.
X. Blocks, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
Y. Doug's Nose, V2+.
Z. Doug's Roof, 11- or V2, 1p, 20', gear or boulder.
Close by to the south is Oz.
Since most items in this list sit alone, approaches are listed accordingly.
Per Chris McNeil: follow the main trail from the parking lot East along Route 128 until you pass the storage units. Turn north after the storage units and follow a trail to the pipeline. Head North on the pipeline until you see either Oz on the left or a tree stand up about 10 feet in a tree on the right. Follow the cairns and trail to Down Under. It is approximately a little over 1/3 mile.
Other Nearby Crags
In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:
nearby Plateau Boulder
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
| || Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall. |
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Down Under
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Down Under:
Splitter 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Down Under
Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c V2 5+ MA
: Cape Ann
: Down Under
If you like crack climbing so much that you have come to the realization that roof cracks are the ultimate, but you lament your roofcrackless life in the Commonwealth, take solace. Doug's Roof is here for you.The problem begins on a juggy rail which you will traverse to the base of the crack. Suss your initial jam sequence, and head out into the horizontal realm. Feet on the rail will help get you started but, unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, won't get you through. As usual, the crux is turning t...[more] Browse More Classics in MA
Center "No Pro" to the left "Ball of Confusion".
BETA PHOTO: Redrock amd vicinity.
This is the first large face section of Down Under...
BETA PHOTO: Right end of Down Under.
|By Corey Baker|
Dec 22, 2011
It's now a bit more clear a path to Down Under. Go around!! the storage units and follow the pipe line up the hill. At the top and across the trail on the right, there is tree stand in the tree with cairns leading the way to a decent trail. Follow it to Down Under. Bring a brush and clean some rock. Refer to the picture to find your way.
From: The Shrew, MA
Dec 22, 2011
Just wanted to add that as you are walking along the small cliff-line of Down Under towards Doug's Roof, you will be able to see the Cape Ann Veterinary Hospital (big brown building) off to your right (east).
If it is winter and the leaves are down, it will seem VERY CLOSE to you. So please be respectful by keeping noise to a minimum if it's during business hours. The owner is understanding of climbers, but let's keep that image positive.
Climb it while it's good! Once this cliff gets hit with ice, it will be June before we're climbing it again.
Nov 4, 2012
Heard there was some shit smeared around down there. Has it been cleaned at all?
Nov 9, 2012
Holds around Down Under seem shit-free as of 10/9/12.
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 3, 2013
We found some fresh shit on the start of Blocks on 6/1/2013. Looked like dog shit, rather than from people. When we first got to the crag, I saw a woman by Doug's Roof, but she disappeared like a ghost when she saw us.