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Down Under

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball of Confusion 
Beast From The East, The 
Blocks 
Bruce 
Cape Ann Fingerbang 
Charging Rhino 
Chippas Crack 
Cloak and Dagger 
Corner Crack 
Crippler 
Doug's Nose 
Doug's Roof 
Down Over 
Down Under 
Eric's Route 
Flaming Galah 
Least Of The Deceased, The 
Left Arete Project 
No Pro 
Premature Escalation 
Right Arete Project 
Second Pitch Face 
Sleek Streek 
Splitter 
Tony the Tiger 
Vegamite 
Unsorted Routes:

Down Under 


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Location: 42.6196, -70.7266 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,835
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Bjorn on Dec 27, 2008
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As you approach Down under from the west, this is ...

Description 

Have you been to Redrock? You can't get enough of that North Shore granite? Wish there was more? Well, there is.

The following are a few far flung curiosities sitting singly, silently, and largely untrammeled in the woods near the classics Zipper, Laughing Gull, and others at the Main Wall at Redrocks.

L->R (WORK IN PROGRESS):

Down Under

A. Premature Escalation, V0-, 10'.
B. Sleek Streek, 11- or V1. 12'.
C. ?.
D. Crippler, V1, 1p, 15', TR or boulder.
E. Flaming Galah, V2, 12'.
F. Cape Ann Fingerbang, V3 11, 25'.
G. ?.
Center Left
H? Cloak and Dagger, V2, 20'.
I? Right Arete Project, V3?, 12'.
J? Vegamite, V2, 8'.
K. ?.
Center Right
L. Splitter, 8+ - 9, 1p, 30-40', gear or TR.
M. Second Pitch Face, 10-, 1p, 40', TR.
N. Corner Crack, 8-, 1p, 30', TR.
O. No Pro, 10- R, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
P. Ball of Confusion, 7, 1p, 30', gear or TR.
Q. Eric's Route, 10, 1p, 40', gear & bolt or TR.
R. Chippas Crack, 8, 1p, 40', TR.
S. Tony the Tiger, 6, 1p, 40', TR.
T. The Least Of The Deceased, 10-, 1p, 25', TR.
U. The Beast From The East, 11+, 1p, 20', TR.
V. Down Over, 5, 1p, 20', bolts.
W. Down Under, 10-, 1p, 25', bolt & gear or TR.
X. Blocks, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.

The Head
Y. Doug's Nose, V2+.
Z. Doug's Roof, 11- or V2, 1p, 20', gear or boulder.

Close by to the south is Oz.


Getting There 

Since most items in this list sit alone, approaches are listed accordingly.

Per Chris McNeil: follow the main trail from the parking lot East along Route 128 until you pass the storage units. Turn north after the storage units and follow a trail to the pipeline. Head North on the pipeline until you see either Oz on the left or a tree stand up about 10 feet in a tree on the right. Follow the cairns and trail to Down Under. It is approximately a little over 1/3 mile.


Other Nearby Crags 

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.


26 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',3],['V2-3',8],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Down Under:
Doug's Nose   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 10'   
Splitter   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Doug's Roof   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   
Browse More Classics in Down Under

Featured Route For Down Under
Gorgeousness and gorgeosity made flesh.

Doug's Roof 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c V2 5+  MA : Cape Ann : Down Under
If you like crack climbing so much that you have come to the realization that roof cracks are the ultimate, but you lament your roofcrackless life in the Commonwealth, take solace. Doug's Roof is here for you.The problem begins on a juggy rail which you will traverse to the base of the crack. Suss your initial jam sequence, and head out into the horizontal realm. Feet on the rail will help get you started but, unless you're Wilt Chamberlain, won't get you through. As usual, the crux is turning t...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Down Under Slideshow Add Photo
Center "No Pro" to the left "Ball of Confusion".
Center "No Pro" to the left "Ball of Confusion".
Redrock amd vicinity.
BETA PHOTO: Redrock amd vicinity.
This is the first large face section of Down Under as you approach from the west.
This is the first large face section of Down Under...
Right end of Down Under.
BETA PHOTO: Right end of Down Under.
Comments on Down Under Add Comment
Show which comments
By Corey Baker
Dec 22, 2011

It's now a bit more clear a path to Down Under. Go around!! the storage units and follow the pipe line up the hill. At the top and across the trail on the right, there is tree stand in the tree with cairns leading the way to a decent trail. Follow it to Down Under. Bring a brush and clean some rock. Refer to the picture to find your way.

By DFrench
From: The Shrew, MA
Dec 22, 2011

Just wanted to add that as you are walking along the small cliff-line of Down Under towards Doug's Roof, you will be able to see the Cape Ann Veterinary Hospital (big brown building) off to your right (east).

If it is winter and the leaves are down, it will seem VERY CLOSE to you. So please be respectful by keeping noise to a minimum if it's during business hours. The owner is understanding of climbers, but let's keep that image positive.

Climb it while it's good! Once this cliff gets hit with ice, it will be June before we're climbing it again.

By welder1
Nov 4, 2012

Heard there was some shit smeared around down there. Has it been cleaned at all?

By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2012

Holds around Down Under seem shit-free as of 10/9/12.

Jim

By coldatom
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 3, 2013

We found some fresh shit on the start of Blocks on 6/1/2013. Looked like dog shit, rather than from people. When we first got to the crag, I saw a woman by Doug's Roof, but she disappeared like a ghost when she saw us.