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down turned ultra aggressive shoes for vertical edging?
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Dec 27, 2012
What do folks think of using an ultra aggressive shoe like the La Sportiva Solution or Scarpa Boostic on vertical to slightly overhanging edging routes like for instance at Smith Rock, or do these perform best on overhanging terrain? Does the extreme down turned nature provide good edging? Thanks. Amir
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 8, 2006
33 points
Dec 27, 2012
The Boostics were my second shoe after stretching out a pair of 5.10 Rogues. I got a size that was too small and I could only bear for about two minutes at a time. Luckily the gym where I bought them allowed me to return them for a 43.5. The aggressive downturn aggrivated a chronic problem I have with one of the tendons in my foot. I've replaced them with a pair of Evolv Geishidos for now. However, I will say that the Boostics are fantastic shoes. They stuck very well on small footholds, edges, overhangs, etc, and I think were better than the Geishidos. However, i can wear the Geishedos for longer, perhaps because I sized them a bit bigger.

This was all gym climbing, btw
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Dec 11, 2012
72 points
Dec 27, 2012
Katana Lace. Stephen Nance
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 29, 2006
429 points
Dec 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the steep 7b crux of S├╝pervitamin.
Hey what's up Amir!
I use my sportiva testarossa's all the time on vertical terrain. They actually smear a lot better than you'd think too. I'm sure a solution would be very similar, I just can't get my foot into a pair. I've used my testarossa's a lot down at Penitente (which I imagine is similar in styles to smith) and notice a big difference in my edging.
From Golden, CO
Joined Mar 13, 2006
3,281 points
Dec 27, 2012
I'm a a Muria lace up guy but I recently purchased a pair of lace-up Scarpa Instincts. I got them this summer for $90.00 at neptune. They were demo shoes that were in great condition. At first they were extremely painful to break in but now I am really digging them as a more precise/ aggressive option to the Muira lace. I have owed Testarossas and Solutions and I feel the Instinct is a nice fit for me between the Muira and Testarossa. The Solutions were too painful for me. If I was going to get another pair of scarpas I might check out the Instinct Slipper. JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Dec 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Stoked...
testarossas are sick at clinging to credit card edges on vertical terrain - they're also a very costly shoe to do that with though Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,687 points
Dec 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: old
I have had my Boostics out for a few pitches and they are performing quite nicely. The climbing has been on slightly overhanging limestone, so a great variety of features for feet.

Take the time to size them correctly and they will fit like a glove, unlike any other shoe I have worn. The toe box seems a bit wider than other shoes I own. The velcro closures are located behind the toe box so make sure it is not too wide for your foot from the beginning.
Lynn S
Joined Jun 16, 2007
872 points
Dec 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: omg
I love my Solutions for smearing. As for edging, they hold up pretty well. I think the ultra-sticky rubber helps conform the shoe to tiny nubs of rock. ChristopherAust
From Ohio
Joined Jul 28, 2012
68 points
Dec 27, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: sail away, joshua tree
testarossas work very well for edging on vertical terrain in my opinion michael rowell
Joined Apr 26, 2011
20 points
Jan 2, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
The Futuras, despite having no edge, worked beautifully for me on tiny edges and ripples in smooth vert limestone. Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Joined Jun 22, 2010
234 points
Jan 2, 2013
Lynn S wrote:
The toe box seems a bit wider than other shoes I own.

I found that as well. There were no LaSportiva I found comfortable because of the toe box. The Boostics were definitely more roomy in the toe.
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Dec 11, 2012
72 points
Jan 6, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
Solutions work 'quite' well for edging but if you want the ultimate edging shoe then go for the Sportiva Miura VS.

The Miura VS has a less radical downturn but retains enough to keep power to the toes. The Miura VS is also a stiffer shoe and has harder rubber which will allow you to stand on micro edges without the shoe/rubber rolling off.
Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Joined Apr 30, 2012
129 points

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