Down jackets

I'm looking for a down jacket and am trying to choose between the following:

Marmot Guides Down Hoody - $175
Western Mountaineering Flash - $260
RAB Neutrino Endurance - $280

The Marmot is significantly less. I see that it is 650 fill down and the WM is 850 and RAB 800. Is this a noticeable difference? I climb rock and don't venture into the mountains much. Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Tahoe, Utah, etc...

Thanks all,
BD

Western Mountaireering is the choice of those 3.......

You'll notice the difference between 800 and 650 when you feel it and try to pack it. Wearing 800 fill is just oh so nice! I will never go back to 650 again. I have a NF 650 fill jacket that I hardly ever wear. It's too pokey and not soft enough and doesn't compact enough.

You should also try First Ascent

I know Eddie Bauer makes this line, but supposedly it's built by guides (Ed Vistuers) and has been used on Everest blah blah blah. My buddy has their Mountain Guide Hooded Down jacke and I like it better than my Marmot Greenland 800 fill jacket that cost $360! They also have lighter versions. I know he loves it!

Definitely the WM, and even if you don't get the WM, most definitely get at least 800 fill power down.

Or better yet get the WM Vapor jacket w/windstopper. I have been using this jacket for a few years now and it is great. HTH.

I have the Neutrino Endurance and think it's great. It can handle snow and light drizzle/freezing rain okay. I believe it should be warmer than either of the other two jackets you list. The Marmot Down Hoody is apparently a hooded version of their Down Sweater. The two jackets are of similar weight, but the 800 fill of the Neutrino Endurance means it should be warmer at that weight due to its slightly higher puffiness (assuming the weight of down is about the same). Their fabrics are very similar in weight (1.7 oz).

WM always gets great reviews, but the Neutrino Endurance would be more akin to the WM Meltdown than the Flash. The Flash XR is an 11 ounce jacket. The Neutrino Endurance is 22 ounces. The Neutrino has about 8 ounces of 800 fill down. The Flash has 3.5 ounces of 850.

The features of the Rab jacket are nice. It has a wired, shapeable, helmet-compatible hood. It seems well-made. So well-made, in fact, that it convinced me to buy one of their Momentum shells.

All these jackets are sewn through, meaning no true baffles. Most light or less expensive jackets are.

You will definitely notice a difference in warmth between 650 and 800+. I haven't used any of the jackets you have listed, however have heard good things about the Neutrino. I have another Rab jacket, the Infinity, and I really like it. It is the same price as the Neutrino and it weighs in at one measly pound! Super light and highly compressible. My only gripe is that I am 6'2"/175 and the XL doesn't fit my torso. Plenty of length in the arms, but would like it a bit longer, but being tall and skinny I have become used to getting poor fits. Good luck with your search!

I use the mountain hardware Sub Zero Parkas. Im 225 & 6'2" and the XL fits great. Sleeve lenght is great too!

It has the conduit treatment so that is a plus and its 650 fill.

GET A DOWN COAT WITH A HOOD!!! Bring your helmet with you when you go to buy the jacket to make sure it will fit.

When i am on belay duty. I am usually wearing the following base, fleece, and softshell/hardshell. I just put my parka over everything and i get toasty in a coulpe of minutes.

I have never worn a 800 fil jacket though so i can't compare.

I would consider the Mont-bell Frostline parka @ $199.00. 800 fill power, box baffle construction, ballistics ripstop nylon shell, hooded, 25 oz size medium. I think their products are superb. If you want to go lighter,less warmth,they have many other offerings.

Brian Abram wrote:All these jackets are sewn through, meaning no true baffles. Most light or less expensive jackets are.

I have the Rab Neutrino Plus. The extra length in the torso is nice. It has box wall construction and is ridiculously warm - maybe too much so for the OP's stated purpose. The 800+ fill is great; it packs down to very well. I agree with the other comments about a hood - essential.

I had a TNF Nuptse and it was nice, but there wasn't a day that went by that i didn't wish that i had a hood, so if you spend any real time outside in the elements get one with a hood.

Western Mountaineering jackets are extremely nice! i just wish they made the gore-windstopper down jacket w/ a hood.

I now have a Marmot Ama Dablam jacket, it's 800 fill, it has a hood and it's extremely compressable if you're planning on using it in the backcountry.

good luck!

The WM Flash and Rab Neutrino End. are really different animals. Pertex Endurance shell on the Rab has a pretty high hydrostatic head and is pretty darn durable. For 3 season use I say flash , for 4 I say neutrino endurance.
As Norman mentioned, Montbell is still a steal. I've used my Alpine Light Hoody on a bunch of winter and shoulder season days.

One more to throw in the mix. I've worn my Patagonia Fitz Roy on many trad routes in the High Sierra and Red Rocks over the past 2+ years. It's been extremely abrasion resistant, suffering only some tiny (and easily repairable) holes on the inner arm from offwidth jams.

i have a Mountain hardware sub Zero Size M That i am looking to sell for 50 bucks. it is in great shape and has barley been worn. has flecce lined pocket and comes with a stuff sack.

go with the Western Mountaineering Flash

The Rab is great, my ONLY complaint is there is not large pocket inside for stashing gloves, waterbottle food etc. All my other jackets for ice etc. have this and I've come to really relay on that mesh pocket to put my gloves in.

Plus the Rab is on sale at alot of places.

I am having the same problem choosing between the Rab Neutrino and the Western Flash XR. If I am in Jackson Hole, Wy am I going to be cold in the Western? Or will the Rab be TOO much on a medium chilly night in Denver? I grasp the technical balance of both...

The Rab infinity would be closer to the WM Flash. The neutrino endurance is a really warm jacket made to be used in very cold conditions. With that said I love my infinity but you couldn't get my wife to give up her Neutrino endurance. Rab makes some really nice stuff. Rab is also making this year an Infinity Endurance that has the similar shell as the neutrino endurance and a lighter weight.
650 fill is a great value but will be heavier and not as compact.

There are so many nice down jackets out there right now that it is hard to choose which one would be the best.
Dallen

I have the RAB (and quite a few others). Love the Rab, but it's alot of jacket to wear out to the clubs!! haha Very light weight, sheds great and is super warm but there is alot of loft. Which is good, but you can rock a tshirt under it on a moderately cool night.

Oh I have a brand new neutrino as well for sale if anyone is interested. Got the tags and all, electric blue.

what size scott

The new OR Maestro jacket is very nice as well.

I really like my marmot guides! it keeps me nice and toasty in the winter and for the price its worked great for me.