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Down in Albion 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c R

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Will Stanhope
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,131
Submitted By: Hayden Kennedy on Feb 19, 2013
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Will Stanhope on the FA

Andrew Burr Photo


Description 

A stunning route with wild feature slapping, committing face climbing and very thin gear. This route defines "new-school" Indian Creek climbing.

Difficult and scary feature climbing on the flare leads to the crux.
The crux is a burly traverse from the flare into Ruby's Cafe. The boulder problem is something like V7/8 with a nasty fall. Finish up on Ruby's.

Proud FA by Canadian hard-man, Will Stanhope.


Location 

Just right of Ruby's Cafe up the obvious flaring corner.


Protection 

Lots of thin stuff. The crux boulder problem is protected by two blades.

2 00 C3
3 Grey TCU
3 Purple TCU
3 Blue TCU
2 Yellow TCU
1 .4 BD



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