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Down in a Hole 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
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Page Views: 710
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2007

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Description 

With above average rock, and sustained, pumpy difficulties, this fine route is a must-do at the grade. Probably the longest route at the Tunnel, and one of the best and hardest of the grade in all of NM. If you like pumpy, Goliath style climbing, this route is for you!

Begin literally down in a hole, climbing out flakey grey rock. A few big moves lead to some sharp crimps and the 2nd bolt. From here, work up and left with shouldery gaston moves along a series of diagonal flakes to the 4th bolt and a great rest. You should be able to get a lot back here. From the rest you can clip the 5th bolt with a long draw or sling (to reduce rope drag), then head up and right along a series of juggy rails to one final shake (and the 6th bolt) before entering the crux section. A rounded crimp and powerful moves gain a double undercling. Clip the 7th bolt here and chalk up if you can, then commit to the dynamic crux on insanely rounded crimps. Technical footwork and precise stabs will get you to a set of rounded slopers, from which you may be able to clip the 9th bolt. Or, if the lactic acid has begun to impair your brain function, you might just decide to keep sprinting for better holds and the anchor. It's not uncommon to sail 40 or more feet, dynoing wildly, the unclipped 9th bolt at your waist, with the route seemingly in the bag.

Location 

4th route from the left end of the cliff.

Protection 

9 Bolts, 2 BA. The 8th bolt is a dogging bolt.


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