Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed
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|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.6 [details]|
|FA: ||James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, 23 June 2005|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring Summer Fall|
|Submitted By: ||James Garrett on Jun 24, 2005|
first belay station
Mule Hollow Wall Approach
In a small clearing about 25m left of Jam Crack and about 5m to the right of Center Face find DDD
Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 32m.
Pitch #3: Aim for the left edge of a bushy ledge passing 2 bolts on the way. 5.5, 30m.
Pitch #4: The face becomes quite broken. Many protection options exist, but you may find one bolt protecting this pitch. 5.4, 30m.
Pitch #5: Romp up the final 20m to the top of the wall, no bolts, but two-bolt belay. 5.3, 20m
Rappel the route with one 70m rope or two ropes or walk off to the south
QDs and a few small to medium Camalots and Nuts
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|Comments on Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed
|By Mark Michaels|
From: Draper, UT
Aug 5, 2005
Also known as "Fly-boy Follies"! -- Mark M.
Sep 25, 2005
Great route - last two pitches can be linked up, the rest are probably better done separately. Approach is a pain, keep an eye out for the cairns on the trail - after the first one (its big 18" tall) the second one marks the point you turn left uphill. Go to the top of the talus and then follow a trail of sorts to the next big talus field. from the top of that you follow and trail of sorts to the base of the wall. Once at the base you have to get to the top of a ledge walk up the side at the base of the rock and then switchback back up to the top of the ledge. (it'll make sense once you get up there) Last 10' felt spicier than 5.3, but other than that the route description above is very accurate, esp pitch length.
- On the rap down be sure to tie knots when going down from #3 (ledge w/ trees) to #2, my rope's (60m) tails just made it to the #2 rap station. Other than that great route - the 8mm cord used at the anchors needs to be inspected next season. *
Car to Car in 5 hours 20 mins.
|By Ryan Brough|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Sep 4, 2006
Fantastic climbing, makes the grueling hike worth it. I beleive that this bolt line follows the same general line as The Center Face (5.6R). There are plenty of protection opportunities, so the bolts aren't really necessary. However, on the first two pitches, the bolts pull you out of the easy crack on to the more exposed face to the right (5.7). So, the bottom line is that I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. The climb certainly doesn't need bolts given the ample protection (even if it is a little runout in spots). The bolt line does remain about 5-10 feet to the left of The Center Face, so it is a different route (not a retro-bolt). I do appreciate the rappel stations. I have rappeled with two different 60 meter ropes and both came up short on the third rappel, so perhaps the chains do need adjusting.
|By Bret Crapo|
From: Springville, UT
May 28, 2009
Awesome! Its almost a crime how good this route is. It seemed a lot taller than 300 feet. More like 450.
|By Ryan Lauck|
From: Farmington, UT
May 30, 2010
Excellent route! The first two pitches were my favorite - not like any other quartzite I've climbed, it felt almost like limestone with huge jugs and pockets.
Definitely seemed more like 450-500ft, descriptions are all dead on otherwise. I found myself placing mostly nuts and slinging horns, but a BD #2 came in handy in a couple spots.
I'll definitely be looking for more routes put up by you guys.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 26, 2010
If the 5.12 climber in you cares about such things don't clip any of the bolts and don't use any of the bolted belays. DDD is essentially a straightened and bolted Center Face (5.6 R) which has gone for years and safely on gear. Creative placements and long runners will turn this now sanitized romp back into a fun adventure route where you spend a lot of time 30' above gear. Beware of a bit of looseness here and there.
Nice engraving on the quicklinks, I'd be all over claiming this one too...
|By Tom Macfarlane|
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.6 PG13
Great Route. Classic autumn day in the Wasatch.
|By Robert MacKinnon|
Jul 24, 2011
Fun route! The 2nd pitch is actually only 29 or 30 meters, not 32m as stated above. It's the 3rd pitch that is 32m (this is the only pitch that can't be rapped (double-stranded at least) with a single 60m rope).
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 21, 2012
This bolted route is not necessary. It is not even a first ascent as listed above but rather a retro-bolt of another route. Someone needs to chop this. If you hike this far to do a 5.6, at least use the natural gear that the wall already takes. Bolting this line, Which is essentially center face, is a disgrace.
Pull it and delete it from MP.
|By Ben Folsom|
Jun 25, 2012
Thanks Dr. Apnea... I climbed the Center Face again with my wife last year and we stubbed our toes on about 20-30 bolts. We did not use the bolts for protection, and in fact there was not a single bolt where I didn't have bomber clean gear within 2-3 feet(I took photos while standing there on the lead, so placing the gear isn't too difficult either). I was following the natural protection of the Center Face and only once for about 25 feet did I deviate from the bolt line to get gear. "Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed". What a fitting name for this retrofit.
This route had it's first ascent more than 50 years ago and has been climbed safely buy hundreds of parties without the bolts.