Dovercourt 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Bob and Lisa Eakle |
| Submitted By: | Steve Marr on May 3, 2005 |
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About mid-way up the route. This is where the rou...
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Description Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.
The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arête. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.
Protection Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Below Dovercourt.
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Just above the route's one bolt.
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Location, location, location.
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Dovercourt, Lower Sun Tower, Unaweep Canyon.
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By Matt Ting
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.7
| Great route indeed - highlight of a day spent on the lower tower. The location is awesome with amazing views that add some exposure and excitement to this short route. True to the rating, nice horizontal cracks where you need them, good feet, good protection to be found (used 2 nuts, 3 s/med cams). For pure enjoyment, best 5.7 I've been on in awhile. |
By Jeremy Werlin
May 17, 2010
| Very high quality--pro may be tricky for a budding 5.7 leader. Excellent clean polished rock. Good shade route. Bring lots of small/micro cams. |
By Brian Wright
From: Glenwood Springs, Co
Jun 23, 2011
| Since this one is at the top of the Lower Sun Tower and the talus drops away to both sides beneath you, it has great views and an airy sense of exposure. That combined with the great rock and interesting gear placements make this an excellent climb at the grade. |
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