This is not a destination rock climb. Any normal person would not complete this approach in order to climb 30 feet of junk rock. But the setting is truly sublime and the views from the peak are incredible.
Climb the open book for 30 feet. Belay at a fixed sling anchor. Scramble another fifty feet to the summit.
Apparently there used to be a USGS benchmark labeled "Dove" on this summit. It's gone now, replaced by a reference mark labeled "NQ 2".
Rappel 30 feet from the anchor.
From the parking area on the dirt road where the Wilderness Area boundary is marked by a barricade, continue following the northbound jeep track on foot. Follow the track to a saddle from which point the crags are clearly visible. Continue following the wandering track until you get as close as your going to get to the west side of the crags. Leave the trail and travel cross country up the western gully between the crags to the south side of Dove.
Once at the saddle, third class your way up the crag until you get to the summit block. The short fifth class section is on the east side of the block in an open book.
The rock quality is pretty poor so any protection placed is questionable. The route is short enough that only a few pieces are useful. Gear: single rack #0.75 - #3 cams and a set of nuts. One 60 foot (20 meter) rope for rappel.
BETA PHOTO: The benchmark
BETA PHOTO: The short 5th class pitch at Dove Benchmark.
BETA PHOTO: Approach for Dove Benchmark. View is from the west...
Looking west to the Lanfair valley from the Castle...