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Crater Crag of North Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crater Cat TR 
Debhedral TR 
Doug's Variation T,S 
Fragile X TR 
Gig, The S 
Golden Arete S 
Misty S 
Mountain Lion S 
Rancid S 
Sending Choss TR 
Sweet T 

Doug's Variation 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 310
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2012

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Deb starts Doug's Variation.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


This is a variation off Rancid that veers right after clipping the fourth bolt. Doug Redosh looked at it the last time we were up there wondering if it would go. It does, and it's better than it looks from below.

Climb up along Rancid's 1st half (crux). Angle up along a nice crack, making one awkward move. Finish up pulling on the top of the wall with your left hand and on a funky, big block with your right. Move left to anchor off the pole and a orange Alien/#0.75-sized piece.

Obviously, since this was fairly clean, this could have been climbed by someone else. If it is your route, let me know and we'll fix the name.


Start as for Rancid, and move right at half height.


4 bolts, cams green Alien to #1 Camalot or wires. Yellow, orange, or red Alien or #0.75 Camalot, the pole, and 48" slings for your anchor.

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