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Stovepipe
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Doughboy S 
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Tangent S 

Doughboy 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Eric Scully
Season: Winter/Fall
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 27, 2012

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Mico pulling on the chipped crimp.

Description 

A fun and extremely bouldery climb. A hard, shouldery boulder problem off the ground leads to an obviously chipped hold and a few pulls over the first bulge. A second (crux) boulder problem is encountered, with a couple options. The FAist went a little left to the pod in the quartz band and pulled some super thuggy, long moves; another method goes a bit right, almost to the arete, then back toward the center. The jug-laden left arete is off. After the crux, trend up and left up a flake past one more bolt to the chains.

Mico hit the nail on the head when he said "the bottom and middle are really, really hard, and the end isn't easy." There aren't any particularly easy moves on this one until the very end.


Location 

The only climb on the narrow NE face of Stovepipe, left of the Flyboys arete. This is the side facing towards New Wave Wall.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Doughboy Slideshow Add Photo
Mico figuring out the right-side method in the crux bulge.
Mico figuring out the right-side method in the cru...
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