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Doubling up on big cams: WC or BD?
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By Kevin D.
From Palo Alto, CA
Apr 6, 2013

I've seen this discussed before, as in, which is better (particularly pre-C4 vs WC), but I haven't seen comments on doubling up in these larger sizes, so here goes.

I have a BD C4 #5 and #6, both of which I like. I'd like to double up on the #5 soon, and eventually the #6. Is there any advantage to getting the WC #5 as my double, i.e., do the WC #5 and #6 compliment the corresponding BDs well? I've heard mixed responses about one pushing better, and being less prone to walking when you climb past it, than the other, and maybe that the sizes are slightly different, but the picture isn't clear. None of my partners climb on the WC large cams, so I haven't had a chance to play with one, let alone place one.

Thanks in advance for any input!


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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Apr 6, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of way right of Bloody Fingers.

The big Camalots are narrower, so the tendency for them to twist is greater.
I like the big Friends, myself. Wide & stable.


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By Matt Kuehl
From the desert
Apr 6, 2013
Plumbers Crack

Personally I think the double axle on the BD is superior and the cam lobes are less likely to invert, twist, and become jingus if accidentally bumped with a foot, arm, or rope in the crack. Most of the times it's not an issue, but every now and then it gets weird. The WC 6 is rumored to be better in the "tipped out" position than the BD, (probably because it's wider) but it's hard to say exactly.


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By johnthethird
Apr 6, 2013

something else to consider is availability. I cant remember the last time I saw a WC #6 on sale anywhere, and the #5's are pretty rare.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Apr 6, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

www.backcountry.com/wild-country-tech-friends


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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 6, 2013

The WC Tech Friends have been discontinued. You can still find a #5, but it's tough to find a #6. Supposedly, WC will be coming out with 5 & 6 helium friends in the next year or so.


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By TBD
Apr 7, 2013

Info on what wild country calls "new friends" 5 and 6. Look a lot like the tech friends...

www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/friends-and-zeros/new-friends>>>


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By Mark Paulson
Dec 8, 2013

Just came across this, as I'm doubling up on cams now. I'm going with Friends for the big stuff, as they're significantly lighter with almost identical range.

WC3.5/BD3 171/201gm
WC4/BD4 208/289gm
WC5/BD5 339/380gm
WC6/BD6 533/557gm

176 gram difference over those cams. I figure if they're good enough for the Wide Boyz, they're good enough for me.


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