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Double Your Pleasure takes on the overhanging wall right of Independence Day. Climb past 3 bolts on sharp but positive holds, with no distinct crux, then step left and move up into an easy (5.5) and featured slab for 30' to the anchor. You can protect the upper slab with gear, but most 5.11 leaders will be ok without it.
This climb is listed as "Unknown"-5.10 in 'Taos Rock'.
Double Your Pleasure is the bolted line immediately right of Independence Day. The 2 climbs share the same anchor.
3 bolts to an easy face (protectable with gear), or run it out, to a 2-bolt anchor
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
I was pretty unimpressed by this route. Blowing the second clip would mean serious ground fall potential and its no gimme if you are climbing at your limit. Also, there are a few disconcertingly hollow flakes on the steep part that are mandatory holds and as you pull over the lip to the easier terrain, most of the big holds are hollow. In its favor it is a nice change from slab. Im not sure Id bother doing it more than once though.
From: The 505
Aug 26, 2013
I was pretty unimpressed by this route. Blowing the second clip would mean serious ground fall potential
Blowing most second clips would mean serious groundfall potential!
This route is not a classic and I would only bother to do it while hiding from the sun in the Independence Gully...and I was one of the folks who put the route up. Lead the line to the left, TR this route quickly and skip the groundfall issue altogether. Kvetching about a sport route with groundfall potential when most of the routes at TP have significant potential for bad falls is fairly hilarious :)