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Observatory Rock
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99% Pure 
Double Vision 
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Will Chevy Slab 

Double Vision 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett and Bob Jasperson, 2002.
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: slim on Apr 24, 2009
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Description 

Climb a semi-polished face with slanting cracks and seams up to the base of the roof. Scrunch to the right, under the roof, and arrange protection in the incipient crack in the roof (I stuffed a #0.5 Camalot and an orange TCU in the best pod).

Crank over the roof either slightly left to a hand-sized crack, or slightly right to other features. Either way it is fairly powerful. The crux for me was getting established above the roof.

Keep climbing straight up to a ramp with several cracks. It is probably best to set a belay here and bring your partner up, or continute straight up the slab or slightly left up a seam in the slab.

Ultimately, you are headed up and left to the tree with slings above Original Route, where you can rap approximately 100' to the ground.


Location 

This is at the very far right side of Observatory Rock, about 50 feet to the right of Original Route and Will Chevy Slab. You can't miss it -- there are 3 cracks going out a big roof. Gets morning sun, afternoon shade.


Protection 

Standard rack to #2 or #3 Camalot.



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