Double Vision / Ream Dream 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Rick Smith, Lee Sheftel & Chris Vandiver, 10/89 |
| Season: | year round |
| Submitted By: | Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007 |
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Pinching hard through the sustained, steep climbin...
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Description Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tricky lower section to high first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs and sometimes are a bit dirty.
Staying on the face is 5.11c. Reportedly, using the arete on the right makes it 5.10d-ish although right at the finish there's an obvious hold on the arete that I consider on route for 5.11c.
Location The steep, pocketed face right of "No Exit" and left of "Cholla Wall". Shown as route number 9 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection 5 bolts to a bolted anchor.
Rob Rhine on Double Vision. Nice lycra.
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Nearing the top of the route where the holds feel ...
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| Comments on Double Vision / Ream Dream |
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By Dave Wachter
Mar 4, 2008
| Really nice climbing on small pockets with a wicked increasing angle up top. Do keep off the arete - the climbing up the face is great, and no scary fall. |
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 23, 2010
| I'm curious about the name. Is it really "Double Vision/Ream Dream" or is "Double Vision" the hard 11 straight up the face and "Ream Dream" is the hard 10 that has the arete on? Or is it something else altogether? |
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c
| From the original guide , Double Vision is the face only (arete = off). Ream Dream includes the arete. The name Double Vision cleverly suggests 2 ways to climb it.
For me, there's one hold near the top that is almost on the arete that I pretty much need for the climb to go, but it isn't too hard to avoid the arete the rest of the way. |
By Naomi Galinski
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| I tried climbing the route without using the arete completely, but that would make the top waaaaaaaaay harder than an 11c. So I second everyone's opinion and think that you can grab the arete near the top for one move as part of Double Vision. |
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