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Double Vee 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FFA Bob Anderson and Henry Barber
Page Views: 1,635
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Kate from Portland near the top.


Double Vee is a classic example of Cathedral 5.9+ and can feel really stiff until you get the beta dialed in. Then it only feels a little stiff. I know the first time I did it I threw in a few 5.12 moves where I could have saved some energy with better beta. It looks much more easy and straightforward than it is, so brace yourself...

Climb mostly face holds along a thin crack through the first "vee" notch. This gets you to a nice rest stance. Then head in to the second "vee" (small nut for protection) and on to a surprisingly challenging mantel finish.


To the right of Nut Cracker, look for the thin crack leading through two "vee" grooves. Hard to miss.


Regular rack with small nuts and TCUs to a tree with fixed rap anchor.

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Otey climbing double V
Otey climbing double V
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By Ladd Raine
From: Plymouth, NH
May 30, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Perfect example of Cathedral 5.9+
Must do for the 5.10 and harder Trad climber.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Feb 24, 2009

I loved the hairy slopey mantels out of each V-notch...exciting!

By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Jun 28, 2010

I don't know what consensus is talking about with this two and a half stars nonsense. This route is great fun.

By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I agree the mantels were pretty exciting, especially the last one!

Great climb.