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Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jun 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Twin Cracks climbs the cracks on the left side of ...

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Description 

The length of this climb is deceptive from the ground - it's a full 90-100 feet to the top. Start out on easy, lower angled rock climbing the twin cracks that are easy on the hands and provide great protection. The cracks continue to converge until you reach a horizontal break about 3/4 of the way to the top. The last 30 feet has the best climbing with positive holds in the cracks and more great gear. At the top, traverse right to the anchors above the roof.

Location 

Double Trouble is located closer to the eastern end of the wall, and climbs twin cracks immediately left of a column topped with a large overhang.

Protection 

Standard rack to a #3 Camalot. Fixed anchors to the right above Ignorant Pursuit.


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Top roping Double Trouble
Top roping Double Trouble

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By jp.brown
From: Silverdale, WA
Sep 18, 2012

A good lead for a fairly novice crack climber (me). I went up with a double/triple rack up to 3" and placed 11 pieces. An experienced climber would not have needed as many. Since you may (like me) be placing gear in both cracks, be sure to use runners or q-draws to keep the rope flowing straight up the rock.
By RachelKB
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I found this to be much harder than any other 5.5 I've ever led. Granted, I'm not a very good crack climber, but I found the route to be almost the opposite of the description. I also led a trad 5.5. in Vantage the week before in my hiking boots. I was certainly glad to have my climbing shoes on this route, and even then I was pretty scared.

The first 2/3 was decent. There was a good hold on the back of the column through the right crack, and decent holds/jams in the left crack and face.

The last 1/3 was very difficult. I have no idea what "positive holds in the crack" the writer is referring to. At this point the right crack turned into an offwidth that I wished I had my #6 for, and did not provide much in the way of jamming or holds. I was able to get gear in the right crack and the small crack in the middle, but I was placing the gear off of crimps. Not what I'd call a 5.5. Technically, I felt like this section was similar to the hard section with the piton on the first pitch of Midway in Leavenworth, but more sustained. That's rated at 5.6, but I also think it's harder.

My husband, who is 6" taller than me (I'm 5'4", although I don't know if height made much of a difference) toproped it and he rated it at 5.8. I'm going with 5.7 to account for the fact that trad climbs are always rated harder than sport.