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Turkey Tail
Routes Sorted
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Acoplopse 
Brush Turkey 
Captain Hook 
Chop, The 
Consternation 
Double Trouble 
Drumstick Direct 
East Side Story 
Easy Offwidth 
Eclipse 
For Turkeys Only 
Gobble This 
Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack 
I Turkey/ Resurrection 
In Search of Unicorns 
Inner Reaches 
Jello Party 
Johnny Lat 
Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) 
Left Side of the Key 
Live Fire 
Make the Cut 
Piece of Cake 
Quivering Quill 
Rasmussen Crack 
Roofus 
Sidewinder 
Spider Lady 
Squeeze Chimney 
Termination 
Turkey in the Straw 
Turkey Turd 
Turkey's Delight 
Whimsical Dreams 
Wild Turkey 
Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) 

Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown to me
Season: South Facing
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Tom T on Mar 15, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Double Trouble follows the wide crack through two ...

Description 

Start in a great crack and continue up "widening" terrain until you reach the first roof. Surmount the first roof (5.9) and continue into a large slot. Devise a way to the base of the next roof where cryptic moves set you up for the grand finale. I really had fun on this one.

Although other options are available, the best belay is right after the final roof. Extend your clove hitch 5 or 6' to tend the rope running through the final roof. A belay any higher could leave your rope stuck in the piece(s) you place at the final roof.

IMO: 4 star moves that are not obvious from the ground with some 2 star rock quality in places.


Location 

Far east side of Turkey Tail...find the obvious double roofs.

Rappel off the east side of the formation or down climb the chimney to the north. The tat on the rappel was "crispy" and seemed old; we backed it up for the first person and left an extra biner.


Protection 

Pro through 5" and several runners. I used 2 C4 #4 and 1 #5 and did some leap frogging. The belay I used took hand-size pieces.



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