Double Trouble 

This is such a great climb but most definitely needs to be powerwashed!

I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.

Beautiful route, though the layback crux seems mild for a 10b. Two lessons learned: rack all you draws on the left side, and don't bother setting a toprope for the second, the swing is a killer.

I usually don't complain about bolts...but at one point I had one at my foot, one at my waist, and I was clipping a third. Still, a unique climb and pretty fun!

So you're saying there are too many?! Some of the worst/most dangerous falls I've ever seen were on this route. I guess the problem is more a lack of clipping stances than a lack of bolts.

Fantastic route. The clip for the first bolt on the second block is pleasantly pumper! The moves above provided the crux for me. Balancy and delicate to be sure. I wonder if it is better not to transfer to the rest above the first block and just go for it as getting reestablished on the route is hard and seems contrived.

Definitely better not to stand up on top of the first block--you're just setting yourself up for a bunch of downclimbing or an awkward transition.

That said, don't be shy about weaving back and forth between the arete and face. One of my favorite routes at the grade at Smith, and a big reason is that everyone has different beta!

this thing is a total greasefest! Ugh!

Interesting comments, and a really different route at Smith. Greasy slippery feet and nothing for the left hand, but usually a very solid right hand on the arete. There are kind of a lot of bolts for Smith, but on the other hand every clip is a bit dicey since your feet could go at any time. So frequent bolts might make sense, so you don't have too much slack out if you blow a clip...

I liked it.