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Fin Wall
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Double Trouble 
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Third World Lover 
Unknown 
Unnamed 
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White Salamander 
Wrasse 

Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,079
Submitted By: Lon Black on Apr 4, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Rope gun: Michelle Hale
Photographer:Lon Black

Description 

Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.

70 M rope absolutely suggested.




Protection 

Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.



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By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006

Cleaned up and beefed up the anchor on this one recently. Thanks to the Climbing Magazine's ARI!

Chris Kalous

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Oct 11, 2011

Kind of sandy on 10/9/2011.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2013

Good line. Note that the unnamed to the left (with Last Day written on the plaque) could be confused with this climb. This one is twin cracks on the right side wall, not the left side wall.