WI3 M5 A0 R
||Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'
|Consensus: ||WI3 M5 A0 [details]|
|FA: ||Doug Shepherd and Kevin Craig (October 2009)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,009|
|Submitted By: ||Doug Shepherd on Nov 3, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Double Tap.
Double Tap follows mixed ground to the right of an obvious ice flow near the Vanquished
buttress. The crux for us was the runout slab mixed climbing required on the second pitch. We used a point of aid to get around the delaminated ice on the top of the first mixed section. This should be possible to eliminate with better ice conditions/better climbers.
The style and difficulty of climbing will vary wildly depending on the ice conditions. If the runnel is bonded better, you can avoid the mixed climbing on the whole first pitch and most of the second pitch. We are pretty sure that the lower ice section has been done as a pure ice route before, but the mixed climbing we did seems to be new.
In a better year there might be more ice past our stopping point, but as it is we rapped from the end of the ice.
This is approximately a 1/4 mile left of the Vanquished
Buttress. We left two fixed rappel anchors, which may or may not be there due to wind and snow.
A few 10 and 13 cm ice screws plus a standard rack. Depending on ice conditions you may want a #4 Camalot.
By Seth Murphy
Nov 4, 2009
Best name for a climb I've heard in quite some time. Nice job, Doug.