Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m) Fixed Hardware (9)
FA: D. Mabe, 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015
Page Views: 5,068 total · 46/month
Shared By: Wiled Horse on Jan 27, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.

Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors.

A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found here.

Protection Suggest change

Bring nearly 15 draws of varied lengths to run the route smoothly in its entirety.

A 70m ROPE is MANDATORY.

Photos

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