Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout)
5.14a YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 6 votes
Type: |
Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
Fixed Hardware
(9) |
FA: | D. Mabe, 2009. FFA: Mark Anderson, 2015 |
Page Views: | 5,068 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Wiled Horse on Jan 27, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Double Stout is a 35m route offering two different styles - sustained techy face climbing and a powerful and dramatic bouldering roof problem. This is easily one of the longest routes of its grade in the Canyon.
Ok, so you have the first part wired and it feels like 5.11. Extend a long runner or back-clean at the chains, or you will be sandbagged by drag. The route crux boulders over the roof and may be significantly height-dependent (clipping the draw hanging in the roof is an indicator). Once over the roof, compose yourself in the copper scoop, then fight the pump on overhanging climbing and a few more overlaps. Naturally, one more sting-in-the-tail move guards the anchors.
A detailed write-up by Mark of his first free ascent, including pictures, may be found here.
Photos
More About Double Stout (w/ extension, AKA Imperial Stout)
Printer-FriendlyFixed Hardware Report (9)
4 Comments