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Double Overhang 

Double Overhang 

5.8-

   
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
FA: Unknown pre-1983
Submitted By: Rob Alexander on Apr 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: P1 Double Overhang

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Location 

Right of Rad Dudes area, Left of the Great Arch Area.

Crux roof is clearly visible from the ground. Once you locate it, P1 is obvious as well.

Descend: 1 rap w/ two 60m ropes via the rib, Class 4 ramp, or corkscrew will get ya back on the ground. You could bring a sling/ring and rap from anchor tree, however be prepared for stuck ropes and having to walk around to the top.


Description 

Starting on the ledge past and above the Rad Dudes Area and about 25 ft right of SOBRIETY TEST, climb a grove past a birch tree and angle towards the (dying) Juniper Tree. Pass easily by a old shitty KB and go up slightly harder ground to the Juniper Belay. 5.5

For P2 go up open book corner capped by HUGE roof. once crouched inside the corner, undercling and smear to daylight and an optional belay. Then pass up easier ground to large hang and jug and foot work your way to easier ground and the top. Tree anchor.


Protection 

Trad Pro, Nothing fancy needed.

P1 tree is looking a little dead, so I'd suggest some creative anchoring suggestions on the P1 belay ledge.



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By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.8- PG13

First pitch was a breeze, which gave you a false sense of security for the secon pitch! First roof was at an awkward angle and fairly exposed. Second roof was totally fun and like a gym boulder problem. Well protected and big belay ledges.