Double Overhang 5.4
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.4 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007 |
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Me at the second overhang. (1Jul2006)
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Description A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.
Location The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.
Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.
Protection Standard rack.
Ryan
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Jason
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Kelly and some classic Devil's Lake high stepping ...
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BETA PHOTO: Rainy Wednesday Tower
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BETA PHOTO: Double Overhang 5.4
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Mike Sohasky on Double Overhang. One
o-hang down...
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Mike Sohasky working his way over the second o-han...
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Steve belaying his partner up the Double Overhang ...
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| Comments on Double Overhang |
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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 13, 2008
| Best 5.4 in Wisconsin. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 18, 2011
| Best 5.4 to do in a November rain storm and your partner has forgotten his climbing shoes in the car and you get a .5 buried deep in some God awful crack and you stop half way to pitch it out because your hands are freezing and then you end up just bailing out through the gully on the left. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 19, 2011
| This is a great climb to introduce someone to the concept of multi-pitch! |
By Tony Brengosz
Apr 19, 2011
rating: 5.4
| Woah, Andy, don't insult me. I left my shoes at home, not in the car. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 19, 2011
| My bad, Tony. But thanks for weathering the storm with me and almost losing your hands to the freeze trying to get my cam out of the crack. |
By NickinCO
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.5
| There's 3 large loose blocks under the roof that rock if you touch them. |
By Josh Knapp
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.4
| Everyone should do this! Just great! |
By Zhengmu W.
Jul 4, 2011
rating: 5.6
| I only led the first half pitch before it got too dark. Then we escaped from the back side of the tower. Fist time climb in DL, rock is awful.
Most parts are well protected, except the traverse below the first overhang. The route has some loosen rocks. |
By Ryan Strong
From: Franklin, Wisconsin
Jul 15, 2011
rating: 5.4
| i agree... best 5.4 in the state! perfect jams to pull through an exposed roof! |
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