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Double Jeopardy follows the stunning arete
Double Jeopardy is a committing, exposed climb on the beautiful arete on the right side of Cochise Dome. It requires some steady nerves and good face climbing skills.
Pitch 1 (5.10+R, 70') - Start on the right side of Cochise dome directly under the blunt arete. Scramble on to a block, clip a bolt, and launch right into the crux of the climb: stiff moves up and left to a 10+ mantle. A fall from the mantle will result in a crash landing on the starting block. Continue up and slightly left on easier but runout climbing. Some pro can be found just before arriving at a ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10R, 170') - Ignore the heavily bolted line heading up and left. Instead follow four bolts toward the arete (5.10PG13). The third bolt is not visible from the belay. Once on the arete the climbing eases a bit and chickenheads offer some protection. There are some runouts on the easier terrain. Belay on good chickenheads to the left of the arete.
Follow What's My Line to the top.
For a topo of this climb visit www.geir.com/climbs.html
Stoppers, slings for chickenheads, and some draws protect Double Jeopardy. After joining What's My Line singles of cams are useful. The original 3/8" bolts on this route still appear to be in good condition.
Start of the route
Andy on his onsite of pitch 2
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