Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim Erickson, free solo
Page Views: 2,458 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Jul 9, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Another 5.9 gear route for shade-seekers, this climb is actually better than it looks. Left of, and around the corner from Cosmosis, is an overhanging corner (The Spoils), and left a bit further is a prominent chimney with two hand cracks forming its margins (a recent bolted line climbs the right wall of the chimney). Brave a bit of initial funk, then jam and stem your way past the bulging chimney. Continue up, then right at a small overlap to a ledge and belay. Proceed up and right on wandering terrain to join upper Cosmosis. It is also possible to reach the anchors atop the first pitch of The Spoils (or the anchors atop Stu's bolt route), by moving right out of the chimney, or you can devise a way to move left to anchors atop Grand Inquisitor (unless my memory is failing me...a possibility, by the way).

Protection Suggest change

Double set wired nuts to 3" cams, or less.

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