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 ADVANCED
Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Double Jeopardy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on May 3, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Double Jeopardy follows the dihedral to a large le...

Description 

Double Jeopardy is just south of the Great Chimney and is somewhat easily located. Look for the most inviting dihedral amongst about 4-5 dihedrals on this wall. About 25 feet up there is a large tree growing from a ledge. Start out on easier terrain. Once you reach the tree the angle steepens. The first real diffuculty occurs below a hanging chimney. Go left of the chimney and surmount a large ledge with a dead fallen tree trunk on it. Pass the trunk and find the crux, a steep face which can be a bit of a puzzle to figure out. If leading, be sure to use your slings wisely to avoid rope drag.

Protection 

Standard rack with a couple long slings.


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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 16, 2007

This route is a dirty grovel fest. Avoid it.
By Aaron Wait
Sep 9, 2012

The bottom was somewhat dirty for me, but climbing past the two chalk stones in the chimney was fun and there was plenty of pro.