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This is a nice moderate route on good rock right of the trad route that is right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo. It makes a good warmup for the harder climbs, being steeper than Gypsies in the Palace (the first pitch of Fire Widow), and it would fit in well with a day of moderate pitches including the 6 trad at the far left, Gypsies in the Palace and the first pitch of Alloy Madness.
The climb starts just left of the gully and angles gently left over several bulges. There's one particular hard move about half way up. Seemed harder than the 5.8 Gypsies in the Palace and seemed harder to me than the 5.9 first pitch of Alloy Madness (whose crux overhang off the ground seems easy for me). So 5.9 seems about right.
Maybe 8 bolts (count them yourself) to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.
I think Chuck is at the crux. You can go at least ...
This photo shows almost all of the route. The crac...
May 27, 2006
This route was really fun, I'd give it 3 stars.
Just to the right of this route is a gully and just to the right of that is some other bolted route, 5 bolts + anchor. No clue what it is called or rated (thought is was hard) but at the 4th bolt the hanger ripped off of the bolt on my second. This was horrifying! Thankfully it happened after my lead. Anyway, this route is now missing a hanger and the one at the second bolt is loose too.
|By Rick Thompson|
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jul 13, 2011
Route info as follows:
Double Hung 9+/10a **
FA: Rick Thompson & Pat Thompson, June 2001
Rock with a different personality than its fellow Ironsides routes - expect crisp edges at a steeper angle. Begin twenty feet right of Nuts, Not Bolts and follow eight brown camo’d bolts past a low overlap on the left and sustained climbing above to a pair of Fixé’ ring anchors. 70 feet.