Double Helix  5.11+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest, James Q Martin New Route:  Yes Season:  Late fall, mild winters, spring Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Nov 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Fists and crisp edges! What a combo...

Wade Forr...

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Description 

Double Helix has gone from a vision, through the works, and come out the other side as a most endearing, classic Waterfall pitch! Aside from the rack, you had better bring your game...

Start out in an obvious tight, vertical stem box, left of the Chronic. Be clever with your gear, fingers and toes, because she comes out fighting right off the deck! Then move up to the first bolt. How can it be hard with such big holds? There are many ways to do it, but thinking outside the box (pun intended) is going to get you moving again past the first stemming crux (layback the jugs on your left, hidden pocket out right...)

Pass a couple of bolts through a very fun, thoughtful, low angle section of stone to access the stem box on your left. Go 12' or so before your next piece(s) of gear (.05 BD and solid wires too). Start moving into tech mode with thin wires, and behind your back stemming through an awesome stretch of finger buckets and perfect finger pods, which will guide you through the middle stem box.

Take a rest, and eye your gear well... because the helix is about to twist once again! When you're ready, launch into the steep laybacking section, which leads to the entrance of the off fist crack......... Which eventually tightens down to perfect, steep hands, and keeps tightening down to fingers at the apex of the bulge! Look for clever, and obvious, steep stemming, pocket jugs, and finger buckets! It's not over until it's over!! Another full on beautiful line!

Protection 

Doubles from #00 TCUs to .5 BD- (save at least one #3 TCU for the top!) they are light and you may want them. Singles from .75 BD to 3.5 BD. Small/medium wires!

Photos of Double Helix Slideshow

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Myself in the steepness of Double Helix 5.11+ Wad...	Moving into the middle helix... Wade Forrest phot...	Loving all the angles! Wade Forrest photo
A classic F*#k you posture- tracking down th...	If you get past this move, you are probably in the...	James Q Martin enjoying the wide open ride down, a...