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 ADVANCED
Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Double Exposure 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A1 [details]
FA: John Long, 1975
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The arete for Double Exposure with the Pirate to t...

Description 

This spetacular route has a great location, climbing directly on the arete that forms the left hand edge of the Buttress of Cracks.

Start around the corner from The Pirate. A shoulder stand leads to two steep bolts of aid and then runout moves over to and up the arete (sling might work on a knob). Follow the arete to the top (10b), belaying at the Insomnia anchor. Great climbing with superb positions.

Location 

Extreme left edge of the Buttress of Cracks.

Protection 

Bolts, gear to 1". Aid slings or runners for the aid.


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