Can start from route immediately left of "Yellow Pages" on ground level. "Double Exposure Direct", 5.12.
By Dylan Weldin From: Austin, Texas Mar 27, 2013 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
Great movement, fun deadpoint move around the arete after the first bolt, nice exposure, solid rock... what's missing?!?: chains on the anchor so you can get down hassle free. As of now, you have to rap the fixed line off the Watch Crystal Gully or down the face of the WC itself.
Alright dear East A. community, the 3rd bolt must be replaced an the spinner anchor bolt. EDIT: done an' done. Anchor up top has a new 6 inch Rawl bolt an' chains... the 3rd bolt. New bolt an' hanger. Same hole was used....shoooooooots was this a fun bolt to re-place...hook an' drill on rap with the death swing looming.... This hanger is the same color as the rock. Have fun. Please don't take the chains from the top. Respect, DF
Thanks for your hard work, Devin. I (we) appreciate all you do for the community. Got on this again since the chains were added and have a few things to say:
If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the chance, I'll put new chains up there.
Next time I do the route, I'll just walk off and avoid the horrid drag.
Also might be worthy to bring a long draw for the bolt on the right side of the arete before heading around the corner to the Watch Crystal face.