Double Exposure Direct
Foreground: Gary follows Push Me Pull You.
Begin on a shared start with "Dogs of Doom". Solo up to the high first bolt (this is the "R" bit) and then begin the exciting, footwork-intensive face climbing sequence on solid edges, sloping sidepulls, and classic crimps until and awkward mantle. There is a small crack here for... maybe a green Alien? Move into more exciting face climbing that links into the upper portion of Double Exposure. It has great movement and great rock; this does not get the traffic it deserves!
This is at the right end of the Watch Crystal. It shares the start with the prominent, left-facing corner that is Dogs of Doom.
The other landmark: it is immediately right of Push Me Pull You.
TR to your delight, then descend via the fixed line in the gully to your right or by rapping the face of the Watch Crystal.
1 small cam above the mantle.
1 48" runner or normal cordelette to extend your masterpoint over the edge of the Watch Crystal (chains should be added, see descent info below).
|Comments on Double Exposure Direct
|By Gary N|
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2013
If you're going to top-rope this after leading, be sure to extend the master point over the lip at the top. We had 2 draws on the chains, and they still didn't reach over the edge. Most horrendous rope drag I've ever had. Needed two people to belay. I went up to clean the route after we were done climbing it. Threaded rope through chains and rapped down. Again, it was incredibly difficult to pull the rope. If the chains extended over the edge, it would make things so much better. If I get the chance, I'll put new chains up there.
Next time I do the route, I'll just walk off and avoid the horrid drag.
Also might be worthy to bring a long draw for the bolt on the right side of the arete before heading around the corner to the Watch Crystal face.