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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aqualung T 
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Double Exposure Direct 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Tony Yaniro (TR) - 1978 FFA: Terry Ayers and Darrell Hensel - 1990
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

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This is a direct free start to the Double Exposure Arete. There are only two bolts before joining Double Exposure at the point where it comes onto the arete at the knobs, making this a serious lead for the grade.

Start just down and right of the regular Double Exposure start. Hard moves (12a) lead around the corner to a second bolt. Pass the second bolt and continue on runout climbing until the Regular route is joined. Follow the regular route to the top.


Extreme left edge of the Buttress of Cracks.


Bolts and gear up to 1".

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