Type: Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Trevor Bowman and Frank Sanders October 17-18, 2008
Page Views: 4,447 total · 24/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 19, 2008
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

An aesthetic nail-up on the steepest aspect of the Tower. The line follows the shallow corner between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner, surmounting a double-roof down low on the first pitch.
P1: Easy free-climbing for about 50' leads into aiding. The initial bit to the double-roof is rather tricky, with cams and assorted pins. The crux section is the roof and the following 20', which requires some tricky, marginal placements. After the crux, the crack opens into an excellent blade seam forever, with some arrow work near the top. The first pitch was strung into one 80m lead, with the belayer scrambling up to the highest possible stance and the leader maxing the 70m rope. Build a pin/cam belay when the rope runs out, about 15' shy of where the crack fades out. 260' 5.6 A3
P2: Clean aid on cams from the belay, tension traverse right into Blade City, nail it a bit, tension traverse right again into Blue Stem Skyway, and follow it on clean aid to a large belay ledge. 50' A2

Location Suggest change

On the southwest face, the crack between Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic and Blade Runner. Easily identifiable by its double-roof down low.

Protection Suggest change

Set of cams through #4, set of stoppers, lots and lots of blades, many arrows, angles #1-#4, 6 birdbeaks, tie-offs.

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