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Dude's Throne
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Double Dominatrix 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, May 2004
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 2,728
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Nov 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Description 

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt. Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt. The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves. Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs. The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs. The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up! Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.

Location 

This ascends the center of the south face.

Protection 

12 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.


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By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is a truly amazing climb and one of the best at Dude's. Lots of variety and cool sequences, make this an ultra classic. The bolting is perfect, and the line climbs really well. As far as the grade is concerned, I think there are no 13 moves on it, but with three distinct sections of 12+ climbing with no rest between, 13a is not a stretch.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Awesome climb! 13a... probably not. Everyone I saw on it on Saturday used some holds out left at the 2nd bolt with a delicate traverse back to the right to clip the 3rd bolt. Perhaps climbing straight up is much more difficult? Also, there is an uncomfortable "look ma, no-hands!" rest in the dihedral.
By Mark Rolofson
Oct 15, 2014

I just made my 10th year anniversary ascent of this route, a few months past the actual day of the first ascent. It is still one of my favorite routes. I couldn't believe the chalk 6 or 7 feet left of the 2nd bolt. If you are climbing this far left you're avoiding the route first crux and are climbing a variation. You have no business downrating it. I could see rating the climb 5.12d/13a or as low as 5.12d, but it's not 5.12c.
By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 17, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Thanks for that opinion, my personal feeling is the route's logical path is to climb left at the second bolt. It flows really nicely and adds a difficult and technical traverse to the thuggy climbing above. Anybody who has sport climbed long enough has run into routes like this, where new beta was found following the first ascent causing a downgrading; it's a common yearly occurrence in Rifle (re: Piece of Cake / Slice of Life). Regardless of opinion about the grade and the correct method to climb the route, I don't think it's anything to get upset over. What is clear is that it's fun and one of the better lines at Dude's Throne.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Oct 26, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I've done it with the direct moves and the traverse method, and they feel about the same difficulty wise to me. Didn't find a no-hands rest though. They're also both really cool. I would say the rock on the direct path is better though.

How are there no pictures of this yet?!
By Mark Rolofson
Mar 15, 2015

Yes, there is actually a comfortable no hands rest in the dihedral. I didn't find it until 2011. I orginally found a very dicey, no hands stem that took enough body tension that I couldn't relax & slow my breathing. So I preferred to rest switching hands using lieback holds with feet on good edges. Basically in the same spot with minor adjustment is a great rest which does make the climb seem a bit easier.
By Bobbi Bensman
Apr 6, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Phenomenal route by a creative human(s)! Bolts right where you need them, complete with fixed chains/biners for the lower off/cleaning of the route. Five stars with several boulder problems to decent rests and pulls a punch at the end!
By Mark Rolofson
May 8, 2015

After watching someone climb the indirect start, it seems very apparent that it wouldn't be a nice fall way to the left of the 2nd bolt. There are good reasons that until 2013 (the first 9 years of this climb's existence) no one went this way. First the direct line is the obvious weakness following a seam crack/vertical edge. Secondly, the less obvious indirect variation looks dangerous. Has anyone fallen off of it? This pendulum fall seems like it would land you crashing into lower angle rock or the short corner below the 1st bolt. You'd best have an attentive belayer who doesn't have a big loop of slack in the rope. Clearly no one would go this way if it wasn't much easier. Until recently very few people argued much with the 5.13a rating. The start was known to shut some climbers down.
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