Double Dominatrix  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] FA:  Mark Rolofson, May 2004 New Route:  Yes Season:  May through October Submitted By:  Mark Rolofson on Nov 4, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>> Golden Gate Canyon is a State Park and a $6 (2010) fee is required for entrance. Self serve kiosks exist throughout the park. Annual passes can be purchased for $60. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt. Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt. The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves. Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs. The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs. The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up! Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.

Location 

The center of the south face.

Protection 

12 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.