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 ADVANCED
Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beck's Bet 
Double Dogleg 
Euthyphro 
Fortune Cookie 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) 
Personal Space 
Pop Rocks 
Rock Candy 
Rock Dog Candy Leg 
Rock-a-Lot 
Silent But Deadly 
Smithereens 
Spitwad 
Split Personality 
Top of the Pops 
Yi 
Young Lust 

Double Dogleg 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kevin Powell, Dan Ahlborn and Tim Powell, April 1976
Page Views: 4,880
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
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Double Dogleg

Description 

This enjoyable route, with it's secure jams, good protection and fun moves make this is recommended route to do when in the area. This was also the first route climbed on the wall and it's name a take-off on the popular Dogleg in Hidden Valley CG. Three stars out of five.


Location 

This is the distinctive zig-zag crack system near the right end of the wall that is just left of Split Personality.


Protection 

Gear to 3".Anchors on top (3/8"). Depending on how much pro is placed you may want to take some slings to cut down on rope drag.



Photos of Double Dogleg Slideshow Add Photo
Seconding and obviously having a great time!
Seconding and obviously having a great time!
Sheryl cruising Double Dogleg (5.7), Joshua Tree NP
Sheryl cruising Double Dogleg (5.7), Joshua Tree N...
double dogleg on cold rock
double dogleg on cold rock
Double Dogleg
Double Dogleg
Neale about to hit the crux
Neale about to hit the crux
Toprope on double dogleg
Toprope on double dogleg
Comments on Double Dogleg Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 15, 2013
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 29, 2003

this is a really nice route. one of my favorites.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 11, 2004

We climbed this last week and on second my hands were frozen by the time I reached the top. Great little route but was it ever cold. I believe this route faces north so be advised if you're climbing in February.

By Richard Beller
Mar 23, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is a superb crack climb -- as good as any 5.7 in the park.

By Jason Shatek
Apr 7, 2005

K, this is about the easiest 5.7 in the park. Easily protectable but few hand jams until you get to the top. There are many good stances where the crack jogs to the left.

By Joseph Lee
Oct 14, 2005

I'm into having fun and this climb is all that. Great feet. Not that hard for 5.7 so a good climb to lead.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

this route is pure fun! it's pretty easy for a 5.7, gobbles up all kinds of pro, great jamming, excellent rock quality, and abundant face holds make for very comfortable stances.

By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2008

Great crack, excellent movement, and easy for a classic 7 (not the easiest in the park, though). However, I'll say that for folks new to crack, and used to vertical gym climbing, negotiating the diagonal section can be a non-intuitive combination of hand-jamming, and finding (good) feet below the crack. For my second it was more intuitive to put feet in the crack and stand up, leaving her with little to hold on to for hands above. Much easier, of course, to keep hands in the crack as much as possible and seek the good-to-bomber feet beneath and to the left. A really enjoyable climb for me, as it provided such good jams/holds and interesting 2-dimensional movement (read: not just up-down). A great way to end the day...

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Like the others say, It's a great 5.7, and solid for the grade. Not my personal favorite, but it makes you think since its diagonal. Also try the Split Personality variant!

By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Nov 7, 2009

Could not disagree more that this is the "easiest 5.7 in the park". IMO, there are a number of 5.7's that are significantly less difficult than this route.
It's a fun 5.7 route that protects well. Fun moves throughout. While it wouldn't be a route that I would suggest for a newbie, I'd recommend for a competent 5.7+ (JTree) climber. Enjoy!

By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 26, 2010

Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face.

What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. If you don't, you're going to be in trouble. Usually on 5.7 routes you have a lot of options. I think if you just tried to power up this route and flail around with your feet you'd be in trouble...so in that sense it's unique.

Also I think it has one of the finest summit views in the park.

Save this one for near sunset on a hot spring day.

By UpRope
Nov 9, 2010

This route protects well, jams well, and the hand jams and footwork are in coordinated sync.A Joshua Tree 'must do'

By Wesley Stupar
From: Glendora
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun safe climb. Lots of solid medium-sized pro opportunities.

As you step up on top, there are two 3/8" bolts to your left (belay anchor) and two rap ring bolts down to your right.

By Canon
Feb 1, 2012

Fair for the grade. Nothing special. Lots of features around the crack that make jams pretty unnecessary. On top are two anchors, 2 bolts and hangars up and left from the top out, and 2 bolts/hangars/rap rings down and right from the top out. Either is about equidistant from the line (10ft), but both would benefit from an extendo if TRing it.

Also, you can scramble to the top of the climb by working south up the "valley" from the base of the climb, and around to the right.

By Climb To Safety
From: california
Feb 15, 2013

Chilly day, the rock was cold, and the summit was extremely windy. Still the view and the climb made up for the cold weather. I haven't done many, but this is one of my favorite 5.7 climbs at Joshua tree. Top notch.