Double Dogleg 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Powell, Dan Ahlborn and Tim Powell, April 1976 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jul 5, 2002 |
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double dogleg on cold rock
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Description Located on the upper Rock Garden Valley Wall, this route lies near the right end of the wall. Look for a distinctive zig-zag crack system...this is the route. An enjoyable route that takes gear well, this is a fun route to do when in the area. This was the first route climbed on the wall and would make a good first route for those who have never been to this area before.
Protection Gear to 3".Anchors on top (3/8"). Depending on how much pro is placed you may want to take some slings to cut down on rope drag.
double dogleg
| Sheryl cruising Double Dogleg (5.7), a Rock Garde...
| Neale about to hit the crux
| Seconding and obviously having a great time!
| Double Dogleg
| Toprope on double dogleg
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| Comments on Double Dogleg |
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By Steve Powell From: Alhambra, California Apr 29, 2003
| this is a really nice route. one of my favorites. |
By Kevin Currigan From: Lakewood Feb 11, 2004
| We climbed this last week and on second my hands were frozen by the time I reached the top. Great little route but was it ever cold. I believe this route faces north so be advised if you're climbing in February. |
By Richard Beller Mar 23, 2005 rating: 5.7
| This is a superb crack climb -- as good as any 5.7 in the park. |
By Jason Shatek Apr 7, 2005
| K, this is about the easiest 5.7 in the park. Easily protectable but few hand jams until you get to the top. There are many good stances where the crack jogs to the left. |
By Ped Apr 22, 2005
| This offers a pleasant lead with lots of gear opportunity and an abundance of jugs. |
By Joseph Lee Oct 14, 2005
| I'm into having fun and this climb is all that. Great feet. Not that hard for 5.7 so a good climb to lead. |
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Apr 12, 2006 rating: 5.7
| this route is pure fun! it's pretty easy for a 5.7, gobbles up all kinds of pro, great jamming, excellent rock quality, and abundant face holds make for very comfortable stances. |
By Jonathan Bent From: San Diego, CA Oct 27, 2008
| Great crack, excellent movement, and easy for a classic 7 (not the easiest in the park, though). However, I'll say that for folks new to crack, and used to vertical gym climbing, negotiating the diagonal section can be a non-intuitive combination of hand-jamming, and finding (good) feet below the crack. For my second it was more intuitive to put feet in the crack and stand up, leaving her with little to hold on to for hands above. Much easier, of course, to keep hands in the crack as much as possible and seek the good-to-bomber feet beneath and to the left. A really enjoyable climb for me, as it provided such good jams/holds and interesting 2-dimensional movement (read: not just up-down). A great way to end the day... |
By Colin Parker From: Portland, OR May 22, 2009 rating: 5.7
| Like the others say, It's a great 5.7, and solid for the grade. Not my personal favorite, but it makes you think since its diagonal. Also try the Split Personality variant! |
By DaveGustafson From: Palm Desert, CA Nov 7, 2009
| Could not disagree more that this is the "easiest 5.7 in the park". IMO, there are a number of 5.7's that are significantly less difficult than this route. It's a fun 5.7 route that protects well. Fun moves throughout. While it wouldn't be a route that I would suggest for a newbie, I'd recommend for a competent 5.7+ (JTree) climber. Enjoy! |
By Chris D From: the couch Apr 26, 2010
| Climbed this for the first time yesterday and found it took gear well, primarily cams. The first section of the left-trending part of the crack was definitely the crux for me. Just to add to the discussion of relative difficulty, I found this route more difficult than Double Cross, but then I like to jam, and this route involves extensive use of the face. What I really like about this route is (unlike many 5.7s in the park, and elsewhere) you really have to be planning ahead for your feet. If you don't, you're going to be in trouble. Usually on 5.7 routes you have a lot of options. I think if you just tried to power up this route and flail around with your feet you'd be in trouble...so in that sense it's unique. Also I think it has one of the finest summit views in the park. Save this one for near sunset on a hot spring day. |
By UpRope Nov 9, 2010
| This route protects well, jams well, and the hand jams and footwork are in coordinated sync.A Joshua Tree 'must do' |
By Wesley Stupar From: Glendora Apr 23, 2011 rating: 5.7
| Fun safe climb. Lots of solid medium-sized pro opportunities. As you step up on top, there are two 3/8" bolts to your left (belay anchor) and two rap ring bolts down to your right. |
By Gannon Feb 1, 2012
| Fair for the grade. Nothing special. Lots of features around the crack that make jams pretty unnecessary. On top are two anchors, 2 bolts and hangars up and left from the top out, and 2 bolts/hangars/rap rings down and right from the top out. Either is about equidistant from the line (10ft), but both would benefit from an extendo if TRing it. Also, you can scramble to the top of the climb by working south up the "valley" from the base of the climb, and around to the right. |
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